Tim Atkin MW (97)

Tondonia's reds have been on an upward curve recently and are now at the same level as the bodega's world-class whites. This is a fine, elegant, savoury, low-alcohol blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Mazuelo and Graciano, combining summer berry fruit, racy acidity, granular tannins and an earthy, balsamic undertone. Good now, but this will develop further in bottle.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

Serious and concentrated, at least by the standards of some López de Heredia reds, this reflects the heat of the 2009 vintage. Tempranillo-based with 30% Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, it’s spicy, savoury and high toned with grippy tannins, layers of tobacco and red fruits and classic, supporting acidity. 2021-30

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2010 Viña Tondonia Reserva has all I expect from a Reserva from Tondonia, complexity, elegance and evolution, a developed nose with notes of forest floor and wild berries, herbs and flowers, a touch of iodine, brick dust and very fine, polished tannins. It has the seriousness and elegance of Tondonia. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho (they use the masculine form of the name of the grape) and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that fermented in the ancient oak vats from when the winery was created 144 years ago and matured in well-seasoned, American oak barrels for six years. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity. 260,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2017.

James Suckling (95)

A traditional beauty that effuses iron, warm earth and savory tobacco leaves, together with plums, spices and orange zest. This is juicy and still tight, with firm but savory tannins. Medium-weight and quite zesty in texture, as is the case with the other López de Heredia reds tasted this session. Drink now or hold.

Tim Atkin MW (95)

Viña Tondonia can seem austere in its (comparative) youth, especially when compared with sweeter Bosconia, but this is a wine that will reward patience. Picked earlier to assuage the effects of a warmer site, this blend of Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Graciano and Mazuelo is structured and focused, with redcurrant, forest floor and green herb notes. Give it time.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2020 Paixar is the one wine from the portfolio that is completely different from the others and comes from high-altitude vineyards in the zone of Dragonte on slate soils. In 2020 and 2021 they used the whole field blend—reds and around 5% white grapes, which might have given it an extra spark of acidity. It matured in 5,000-liter oak vat and 500-liter oak barrels. It has a perfumed nose, elegant and floral, with good ripeness but without excess. It's finely textured with a chalky thread and great balance. It finishes long and dry. This is truly superb and should evolve nicely in bottle. It's now Vino de Paraje 'A Serra' in Dragonte, a parish of Corullón. 8,000 bottles were filled in November 2021.

Wine Advocate (97)

The vino de paraje from A Serra in Dragonte 2021 Paixar is as good as ever, with the austerity of the slate slopes and the old vines that deliver low yields of concentrated and characterful grapes. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and a very fresh sensation on the palate beyond analysis. The vineyards are in the process to obtain organic certification. 6,500 bottles produced. This is one of the most elegant vintages for this wine.

Wine Advocate (95)

Both wines from 2018 showed very fresh and young, younger than you'd have anticipated. The 2018 El Terroir follows the path of previous vintages and is a Garnacha selection of their organic and biodynamically farmed plots (but not certified), fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in barrel for 18 months. It's clean and aromatic and has herbal freshness, a certain leafiness that even makes me think of Mencía. The oak is neatly integrated and folded into the wine, which comes through as balanced and elegant, with a Mediterranean twist that is characteristic from San Martín. It has a medium to full-bodied palate with very fine, chalky tannins. 24,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in October 2022.

Wine Advocate (97)

No 2017 was produced, so after the 2016 I tasted a while ago, we jump to the 2018 La Dama, vinified by Enrique Basarte and Elisa Úcar and blended and bottled by Raúl Pérez, the new owner of the project. They always look for a more delicate expression of Garnacha from selected stonier plots of old head-pruned and dry-farmed vines in the village of San Martín de Unx that are worked organically and biodynamically but are not certified. The wine is stunning, elegant and aromatic, with depth, complexity and grip. It's incredibly young and expressive and doesn't show its age at all; it has a refined nose and is quite fruit-driven and floral, with very integrated oak (like never before), supple flavors and very fine tannins. It has good ripeness and contained alcohol (13.8%) and good freshness and acidity (with a pH of 3.46 and 6.3 grams of tartaric). 10,000 bottles were filled in October 2022.

Decanter (98)

A new-wave Sherry by winemakers Ramiro Ibáñez and Willy Perez makes its debut on the Place de Bordeaux this September. 100% Palomino Fino grapes come from the 3.35-hectare San Cayetano vineyard in Macharnudo, planted in 1988. Beautifully fragranced nose, really perfumed and floral, scented with wildflowers. The wine sees one year of flor ageing but it's distinctly dry and round on the palate. There's a thickness to the texture, like thick honey but with salted, softly spiced edges and a core of bright lemon, peach and pear that gives tang, energy and excitement to the expression. Poised and refined, this has a lovely ease about it, beautifully textured and fully flavoured with mouthwatering acidity and bursts of bright citrus zest that counter the saltiness - close your eyes and you could be by the beach! Interesting and captivating, long and lingering, crying out to be eaten with nuts. lovely sea salt spray, close your eyes and you're at the beach! limestone. Small production of only 6,000 bottles.

James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.

James Suckling (98)

Extremely well-mannered, traditional character to this, showing layer upon layer of savory complexity on the nose, with iron, dried meat, tobacco, balsamic fruit, dried red berries, orange peel, leather and dried mushrooms. A medium-to full-bodied, linear and zesty Rioja that’s full of nuanced flavors that linger through the very long, savory finish. Floral, too. Yet, it remains bright and precise. Tempranillo with 16% mazuelo. Drink on release or hold.

Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

Vinous (91)

Opaque ruby. Oak-spice-accented red and blue fruits, vanilla, roasted coffee and a hint of smokiness on the perfumed nose. Supple and expansive in the mouth, offering concentrated black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors that turn sweeter with air. The vanilla and cherry notes linger on the sweet, persistent finish, which is shaped by supple, harmonious tannins. Definitely showing its oak right now, but there's plenty of fruit to back it up.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

Fresh, serious, stylish and well balanced, this is a delightful 2015, with no sign of the heat of the vintage.

Wine Enthusiast (99)

Dark-garnet to the eye, this wine has a bouquet of black currant, bittersweet chocolate and almond blossom. It alights on the palate with flavors of blackberry, cassis, chocolate-covered espresso bean, violet and citrus zest. Energetic tannins power their way into a cherry-pie finish. Made with vines more than 30 years old, this wine is unfiltered; decant before serving and strain if necessary. Drink through 2045.

Vinous (92)

(this wine was reviewed in July 2008 and is a library release, with a price to match) Deep ruby. Potent cassis and blueberry aromas show excellent clarity and lift, and cigar box, licorice and vanilla notes add complexity. Supple, broad and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated dark berry, cola, vanilla and peppery spice flavors and a smoky quality that emerges on the back half. Finishes long and smooth, featuring slow-building tannins and lingering blue fruit and oak spice qualities. For a 13-year-old wine, this one is extremely youthful.

Wine Advocate (94)

They didn’t bottle Dalmau in 2008, so they are already releasing the 2009 Dalmau Reserva now, which shows a more modern profile than the Reserva or the Castillo de Ygay. It’s a blend of 74% Tempranillo, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Graciano from a single vineyard called Canaja, planted in 1950, which yields one kilo of grapes per plant. The different varieties are fermented separately in stainless steel and oak vats. The wine carries out its malolactic fermentation in new Allier barrels, where it matures for a further twenty months, but the varieties are kept separated for the first 13-14 months. The wine is left to settle in concrete vats for six months before being bottled. It displays a dark ruby color, a serious nose with some balsamic, minty notes, and aromas of licorice, cedar wood, smoke, cigar ash, a mixture of red and black fruit, and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon. It feels more Atlantic than Mediterranean. The palate is round and elegant, with great acidity, amulti-dimensional character, and a very long finish. 22,500 bottles were filled. Drink 2014-2028.

Wine Advocate (95)

The extremely young and undeveloped 2012 Mas del Serral was produced with a field blend of Xarel.lo and Bastard Negre (Graciano) from the oldest vineyard on the family property (planted between 1950 and 1954). The wine has 12.5% alcohol and very low pH (2.96) and is incredibly subtle and delicate with inner strength and energy. It has incipient notes of fennel and aniseed, energetic and very much alive but in need of more time to unfurl more layers of aromas and gain weight in bottle. 2012 was a dry year, and the wine has a dry and stony palate. It also has high acidity through concentration of the juice and is mineral and austere, with no heat or fat. 2,440 bottles produced. This ages in bottle for at least 100 months.

Wine Advocate (95)

I had two vintages of the old-vine cuvée to taste side by side, starting with the 2014 Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles. Made of 55% Cariñena and 45% Garnacha from old vines on slopes on slate llicorella soils, the fermentation and aging are the same as for the centenary Carignan: fermentation in stainless steel with neutral yeasts and an élevage of 16 months in new French barriques. It has moderate alcohol and high acidity. It has already started developing some tertiary notes and shows some graphite and wet slate notes. The palate shows great balance, with concentration and freshness—what you're aiming for in a wine like this where pure power might be too much. 5,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in April 2016.

Exhibiting the sophistication of fine wine, the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2004 is a stunning product of Spain's Emporda region. This esteemed winery, owned by the Gil family since 1998, is nestled in the Verdera mountain foothills. The Emporda Clos Agon 2004, with its elegant intensity and complex character, speaks of a meticulously monitored wine-making process.

Crafted from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Grenache, it matures in a French oak ensemble that releases mouth-watering notes of ripe dark fruits, crowned by a hint of spiciness. Aged for two decades, the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2004 is now gracefully mature, boasting a resilient ruby colour and tannins that have mellowed over time.

This wine is testimony to Mas Gil's dedication to preserving the locality's wine-making heritage, providing an elegant taste of Emporda. Relax in its velvety embrace as you savour the rich, layered palate, that amplifies the splendour of the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2004.

The Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005 is an exquisite offering from the picturesque region of Emporda, Spain. The esteemed Mas Gil winery cultivates this voluptuous vintage from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot vineyards planted in the early 1990s. With the Mediterranean at its doorstep, it derives a unique character from the region's distinctive weather conditions.

Following traditional vinification processes, the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005 undergoes painstaking manual harvesting and rigorous selection. Ageing occurs in French oak barrels for a period of 18 months, lending complexity to its fruit-forward bouquet. On the palate, bold undertones of red fruit meet delightful notes of espresso and a hint of mint for a well-rounded finish.

Producing only 3,000 bottles per annum, the Mas Gil winery truly brings out the best in exclusivity and character in the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005, making this wine a prized gem for discerning collectors.

The Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005 is an exquisite offering from the picturesque region of Emporda, Spain. The esteemed Mas Gil winery cultivates this voluptuous vintage from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot vineyards planted in the early 1990s. With the Mediterranean at its doorstep, it derives a unique character from the region's distinctive weather conditions.

Following traditional vinification processes, the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005 undergoes painstaking manual harvesting and rigorous selection. Ageing occurs in French oak barrels for a period of 18 months, lending complexity to its fruit-forward bouquet. On the palate, bold undertones of red fruit meet delightful notes of espresso and a hint of mint for a well-rounded finish.

Producing only 3,000 bottles per annum, the Mas Gil winery truly brings out the best in exclusivity and character in the Mas Gil Emporda Clos Agon 2005, making this wine a prized gem for discerning collectors.

As an expertly crafted nectar from Catalonia's world-class wine region, Mas Gil Priorat Coma Vella 2017 is indeed a vivid expression of luxury. This esteemed wine is birthed in the mineral-rich terroir of Priorat, where the age-old winemaking traditions of Celler Mas Gil culminate in its exquisite versatility. Showcasing a robust blend of Garnacha and Cariñena varietals, it bears the vivid hues of a starlit night.

Meticulously aged for 16 months in French oak barrels, it adorns a complex nose of ripe berries, saddle leather and spice. On the palate, its structured boldness harmonises with elegant tannins and a velvety finish. Venerated producer, Mas Gil, is renowned for their unwavering commitment to quality and sustainable viticulture, expertly mastering the delicate balance of power and harmony.

Now, harness the opportunity to savour the refined intricacies of Mas Gil Priorat Coma Vella 2017 - an emblematic wine that truly manifests the essence of its extraordinary Spanish heritage.

Wine Advocate (96)

I love the 2015 Clos Martinet, which I find complex and elegant while keeping the Priorat rustic character found in the best vintages, like 2000. It's balanced, and the palate feels ethereal for the concentration it has. The tannins are abundant but very fine-grained, and there is a sense of harmony that is captivating. A great Clos Martinet. I had the chance to drink the 2000 a few days before I tasted this, and it remains one of the best years they have produced. 2015 is also among the best years. The favorites for Sara Pérez are 2009, 2013, 2015 and 2017. 12,000 bottles were filled in April 2017.

Wine Advocate (96)

The flagship 2018 Clos Martinet is the wine that started it all and is still a blend of Garnacha (Tinta and Peluda), Syrah, Cariñena, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Monastrell as it was since the beginning but now with a restrained 13.5% alcohol and higher acidity. Clos Martinet is a single five-hectare terraced vineyard planted with clonal material in 1986 on decomposed llicorella slate, iron and big rocks in the soil. The varieties are co-fermented depending on the date picked—at three different ripening times—in two concrete vats and 200-liter oak vats with indigenous yeast and whole clusters. The beginning and end of the élevage was in concrete, and in between they used 2,000- and 4,100-liter oak vats and some 20% in glass demijohn and amphorae. The wine is subtle and a bit shy, insinuating rather than in your face. There is a lot less ripeness than in the past. It's medium-bodied and fluid, fresh and balanced. This is a very elegant Clos Martinet. 11,070 bottles and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in June 2020.