Wine Advocate (97)

The south-facing 2.72-hectare monopole Coteau des Treilles in Rochefort was resuscitated at the end of the 1990s by Jo Pithon from Domaine Pithon, once famous for world-class noble sweet wines from the Coteaux du Layon. Abandoned after the war because of its 30% to 70% steep slopes, this south-facing hillside is based on "geological chaos," as Ivan Massonnat puts it. "The subsoils are made up of magmatic rocks, schists, pudding stone and ancient limestones. ... This plot is located in the heart of the Pont-Barré Natural Reserve, a heaven of biodiversity that has never known chemistry and is home to exceptional flora and fauna, observed as early as the 18th century by Angevin botanists." I remember well my first visit here 17 years ago when I was deeply impressed by the vineyard and Jo's initiative to bring this grand cru back on the map of the Loire's finest vineyards. I have always adored Jo's wines from this cru, but the Belargus 2018 Anjou Coteau des Treilles seems to top everything that I have known from here. Intensely golden-yellow in color, the wine opens with a pure, refined and elegant yet intense and flinty nose of perfectly ripe yet fine fruits that intermingle with the schistous terroir as well as pastry and lemon/orange-scented fruit aromas. Filigreed and intense on the refined and elegant palate, this is a full-bodied, dense, intense and tensioned yet highly finessed and elegant Chenin with elderflower and orange blossom flavors at this early stage and a delicate tannin structure. The wine is rich and intense but always stimulating, with great finesse and elegance as well as long and juicy, wonderfully concentrated fruit. Everything is in great harmony, and any serious wine lover should at least taste this beauty.

Vinous (95-97)

Just outside the village, Clos Guillot sits on a slope on clay over limestone. The 2019 Chinon is a serious barrel sample that melts in your mouth with its silken texture. No crushing, very little remontage and a year in used barrels all lend a very gentle touch. The tannins build gradually, coating the mouth with the finest of chalky textures. Excellent acidity keeps things fresh through the finish.

Vinous (94)

The 2018 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie is richly fruited, reflecting the warmth of the vintage, and soft and mouth-filling despite not being heavy. There's baked fruit here, suggesting a combination of black currant, red cherry, cedar and spice. The tannins are structured and textured, showing this wine's intent, but it's all very well handled – those tannins are both resolved and incredibly chalky. This is a lengthy, serious wine with sinew. The vintage might be evident in the high alcohol and warm profile, but the class of the site is also indisputable.