Wine Advocate (97)

No, the vintage date of this wine is not an error. Just released, it is a selection of old-vine Primitivo grown south of Taranto and only now hitting the market. No one seems to know whether the fermentation was stopped by fortifying the wine or if it just stopped on its own as a result of the superlative richness of the must, but the fact remains that, with close to 14% of alcohol, it is as sweet as a great Recioto, a wine which it greatly resembles. Still an amazingly fresh ruby color, it features a decadent nose of blackberry jam, raisins, chocolate, and licorice, a texture of sheer satin, great warmth and roundness, a sweetness which never becomes cloying, precise and focused flavors, and a finish as long as the fade-out to "Hey Jude". The producer is negotiating with an importer for this and other wines, but it is presently available at Piero Selvaggio's Valentino restaurant in Santa Monica and at Alain Ducasse's Louis XV restaurant in Monte Carlo, for those willing to fling a few shekels around.

Emerging from the esteemed vineyards of Saarburger Rausch, the Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 2009 offers an indulgent taste of superior German craftsmanship. Hand-harvested with meticulous precision, this outstanding wine reverberates with the expertise of the Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken estate, revered for its dedication to viticulture since 1742. This magnificent Riesling Auslese exudes the distinct terroir of Saar Valley, a unique composition of weathered grey slate and iron-rich soil, delivering an indelible minerality in every sip.

Characterised by an aromatic bouquet of ripe apricots, candied lemon peel, and subtle hints of honey, it possesses a remarkable ageing potential. Its vibrant acidity and persistent sweetness yield perfect harmony, making the Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 2009 a cherished addition to any discerning wine collector's selection.

James Suckling (96)

A powerful yet balanced red with glorious dark fruits, sweet tobacco, dark mushroom and flowers. Full body, chewy and rich tannins and a long and powerful finish. Drink in 2019 but already a star.

Ascend to the zenith of viticultural excellence with the tantalising Giraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2020. This stellar vintage emerges from the esteemed house of Giraud, a family-run estate headquartered in the historic, sun-drenched vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France. Remarkably, the Giraud siblings’ dedication to organic viticulture yields grapes of supreme quality from their old Grenache vines. Superior manual harvest and rigorous berry selection culminate in a wine that exudes impeccable purity.

Fortuitously, the 2020 vintage marks a feat in the winemaking world with its profound concentration and balance. Burgeoning with dark berry flavours and sprinkles of spice, the Giraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2020 tastefully acknowledges its terroir's earthy and stony streaks. Veering towards full-bodied, its palate-coating, silky tannins and vibrant acidity add to the harmony. Aged predominantly in old oak foudres, this French red encapsulates the beauty and finesse of the Southern Rhône valley, offering a wine experience par excellence in every sip.

Decanter (93)

Gosset is the oldest house in Champagne, and is a favourite among wine trade insiders. This non-vintage cuvée is redolent with the aromas of mellow red apple fruit. It has beautifully subtle autolysis on the palate, with creamy apple and plum flavours, and a great precision at the same time.

Decanter (96)

This has a burnished mahogany colour - pale and interesting with an intense nose, coffee, tertiary notes, forest floor, balsam and tree bark. On the palate graceful plum fruit is now giving way to raisin, toffee, balsam, coffee, spice box and creamy caramel. It has a refined texture with super complexity and balance alongside a lovely freshness, elegance and length. A classic, old school, mature Rioja which is very much alive and a joy to drink. It’s at its peak but should plateau at this level for some time if well stored.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes is based on 45% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre, with the balance Syrah, all destemmed and raised in 55% new French oak. Gorgeous cassis, violet, graphite, fruitcake, and peppery herbs define this brilliant effort, and it's full-bodied, with a pure, seamless texture, wonderful tannins, and one heck of a great finish. This magical 2019 is going to benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age (it's brilliant even today) yet keep for 20 years or more. Châteauneuf du Pape lovers need to have this in their cellar!

Whisky Advocate (93)

Deep layers of vanilla and mizunara oak with sugar sprinkled pastries, incense sticks, oiled wood, tatami, dried apricot, golden sultana, and faint smoky spiciness. Nectarous mouthfeel with honey, barley sugar, dried citrus, orange peel, and delicate spices, it continues to sweeten beautifully showing vanilla, sugared almonds, banana custard, with hints of ginger and gentle oak. Slightly gummy finish as the vanilla quenches little eruptions of wood spices.

Jancis Robinson (17)

Marc Kent's field blend from vineyards over 50 years old comprising Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca and Rufete, aged 16 months in used French barriques. Deep purplish crimson. Pretty ripe and luscious on both nose and palate with smoother tannins than many Douro reds – there is still some tannin but it's very ripe. Lots of work involved in this feat? Yet it definitely tastes of the hot stones of the Douro. Well done! Really rather gorgeous already. Clean, fresh, appetising finish. A cheerful wine that comes out of the glass to metaphorically lick your face affectionately. Bravo!

James Suckling (100)

The much-anticipated 2002 has impeccable detail and depth with a lot of chalky, stony and flinty elements on the nose as well as a very fresh edge. The nose is very complex and wound up tight but presents itself as very integrated and compressed. There are aromas of lemon rind, lime juice and a lime custard all at once, complemented in turn by a super-restrained hazelnut-like edge. Undertones of brown mushrooms, chalky minerals and lemon leaf. The palate has a core of sizzlingly intense, concentrated chardonnay framed whitin a powerful phenolic structure that will underpin the future of this Champagne. Flawlessly fresh and as perfect as it gets. Give this time as it needs to settle: best from 2020 and then for another decade beyond.

James Suckling (100)

This is very structured and framed with an almost red sensibility. Very phenolic. Full-bodied in a tightly wound ball with so much going on. Very pinot like. Mineral and stone. Shell and stone. Iodine. Vinous. The bubbles just fade into the finish of the wine, which goes on for minutes. Turns to toffee and salted caramel with time in the glass. One for the cellar. Great length. Blend of 53% pinot noir, 25% pinot meunier, 22% chardonnay. Disgorged in beginning of 2020. Drink or hold.

Vinous (92+)

I must admit, Krug's 2000 Clos d'Ambonnay remains a mystery. The first bottle I tasted, in March, at Krug, was utterly spectacular. Rich, creamy and ample on the palate, the 2000 was captivating from start to finish. Two thousand is the first vintage made entirely by current Chef de Caves Eric Lebel. My impression at the time was that Lebel had given his Ambonnay softer, gentler contours than the 1995, 1996 and 1998, all which were much more austere when first released. But then I tasted the 2000 several times in the US, where it has so far been less impressive. I am hoping issues with shipping for a handful of samples will turn out to be the root cause, and that the 'real' Ambonnay will be closer to what I tasted at Krug in March. If that turns out to be the case the 2000 will be due for a major upgrade.

Vinous (97)

A stellar Champagne, Krug"s NV Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition, (2008 base vintage) is painfully tight. The 164 is a fabulous wine, but readers should not fall into the temptation of opening a bottle anytime soon. Crushed rocks, slate, mint, sage and white pepper lend striking aromatic brightness. The 164 is just as compelling as it has always been. Even so, it needs time to be at its very best. The 164 is a blend based on 2008, with reserve wines back to 1990. Krug ID: 316031. (Originally published in May 2021)

Vinous (97)

A stellar Champagne, Krug"s NV Grande Cuvée 164ème Édition, (2008 base vintage) is painfully tight. The 164 is a fabulous wine, but readers should not fall into the temptation of opening a bottle anytime soon. Crushed rocks, slate, mint, sage and white pepper lend striking aromatic brightness. The 164 is just as compelling as it has always been. Even so, it needs time to be at its very best. The 164 is a blend based on 2008, with reserve wines back to 1990. Krug ID: 316031. (Originally published in May 2021)

Wine Advocate (95)

Coming from a cooler, sandy terroir in the northeastern part of the appellation, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin (which comes 80% from the Chaupoin lieu-dit and 20% from the La Janasse lieu-dit, hence the subtle name change) is 100% Grenache, from vines planted in 1912, that’s aged two-thirds in foudre and one-third in demi-muid. Gorgeous all around, with plenty of similarities to the traditional cuvee, yet slightly richer and fuller, it delivers beautiful mulled red and black fruits, licorice, spice and tinges of stony minerality on the nose. Full-bodied, supple, seamless and elegant, with fine tannin, it makes the most of a difficult vintage and is certainly one of the top 10-12 wines. Drink now-2023.

Vinous (94)

Deep magenta. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black raspberry, cherry cola, potpourri, tobacco and exotic spices, plus a smoky mineral flourish. Sweet and broad in the mouth, offering lush red and blue fruit, spicecake, mocha and coconut flavors that firm up on the back half. Finishes extremely long and spicy, with resonating florality, gently chewy tannins and lingering oak spice notes.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

I was able to taste the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape multiple times, and it’s the finest vintage I’ve ever tasted from this estate, surpassing even the 2016. Lovers of classic, impeccably made Châteauneuf du Pape should back up the truck on this beauty. A wine of incredible richness and depth, as well as elegance, it has a gorgeous nose of peppery herbs, blackberries, garrigue, cured meats, and sandalwood. Full-bodied and concentrated, it builds incrementally on the palate and is perfectly balanced, with sensational purity, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. There’s nothing over the top or out of place, and traditionally made Châteauneuf du Pape doesn’t get much better. It needs 2-4 years of bottle age and will shine for well over two decades. Bravo!

Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

Lastly, and a wine that will be a candidate for perfection in 4-5 years, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Centenaire reveals a deep ruby/purple hue as well as extraordinary notes of black cherries, licorice, iron, nori, and peppery garrigue. As with the base 2019, the estate did an incredible job with the tannins, and this wine is flawlessly balanced, with ultra-fine tannins, no hard edges, and the sheer class to evolve for 25+ years. This is a perfect example of power with no sensation of weight or heaviness. The blend in 2019 is 84% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre, and 6% Syrah, and it wasn’t destemmed and was brought up mostly in concrete tanks, with just 6% in very old barrels.

Vinous (94)

Roederer's 2009 Brut Nature is compelling. Powerful, ample and creamy, the 2009 has more than enough natural richness and texture to carry the wine with no dosage. The Brut Nature emerges from vineyards in Cumieres, where the wines are naturally tense, which creates a fascinating push and pull with the ripeness of 2009 and no dosage approach. Of all the grand marque Chefs de Caves, Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon is the closest to his vineyards and the most artisan in spirit. That comes through loud and clear in this fabulous Champagne. The Brut Nature is also the single best value within the Roederer range today.

Wine Enthusiast (95)

The Roederer style has become drier as the fruit has become riper and this finely balanced Champagne is an excellent example. Taut and textured, with great freshness allied to the mineral and fruit tones, this wine just hints at tannins as it moves towards maturity. Drink from 2022.

Decanter (97)

Softly shimmering straw gold, green tints, with a delicate filigree dancing at will around the glass. The nose is gently authoritative; spring flowers garlanding stone fruit, a hint of hawthorn maybe, then lemongrass. The palate has encyclopaedic depth, the intricacies of the Perpetual Reserve weaving their early magic; almond, sloe, gingerbread and apples; the finish has a pleasing twist of bitterness, courtesy the small percentage of oak-aged reserve wine. Maybe the dosage can come down even further, such is the engaging and subtle complexity harnessed elsewhere?

Jancis Robinson (17.5)

Rich, indulgent, baked character on the nose. Long, toasty palate. Certain minty freshness. Understated as yet

Wine Advocate (99)

A candidate for wine-of-the-vintage honors in Champagne, Roederer's 2013 Cristal Rosé is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, red berries, stone fruit, freshly baked bread and tangerine oil. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, the vintage's bright girdling acids are amply cloaked in exuberant, expressive and notably concentrated fruit; so while this Cristal is as tensile and age-worthy as one would expect, it's also impressively fleshy and generous given the year. Concluding with an intensely sapid finish, the 2013 isn't as overtly structured as the muscular, tightly wound 2012: rather, it's the 2013's alliance of cut and flesh, precision and charm that's so compelling this year. This is another banner vintage for what I consider the reigning champion of the region's tête de cuvée bottlings, and it will be worth an effort to acquire.

Wine Advocate (91-93)

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2020 Marjosse comes barreling out of the glass with rambunctious scents of cassis, crushed blackberries and black plum preserves, followed by hints of dark chocolate, anise and tar, plus a fragrant waft of lavender. The medium-bodied palate is soft, juicy and wonderfully refreshing, delivering wonderful poise and expression with a fun burst of pure black fruit on the finish. Delicious!

James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Pale, particularly bright garnet. Light, spicy, particularly well-integrated nose. Already well developed. Sweet start and very nicely mature. Seems just right now. The opposite of heavy. Lifted, jewel-bright. Really lovely wine. Fresh, sweet with some very slight mintiness. Dry finish and it would go beautifully with food. Very long. One of my favourite wines in this collection. Is it the Cinsault I like so much?