The Wine Cellar Insider (98)

Flowers are the first thing you notice before discovering all the spice, cloves, kirsch, and dark cherries on the nose. On the palate, the wine is silky, elegant, fresh, supple, and refined. The kirsch shows a beautiful purity and spicy character, along with its refined tannins and peppery strawberries that kick in at the end of the finish. The wine is a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah with the remaining 5% consisting of various, allowable grape varieties. The grapes are as always 100% destemmed. The production is quite low this year at only 25 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is 15.2% ABV, but you do not sense any heat.

Wine Advocate (98-100)

A co-fermented blend of 55% Grenache and 45% Mourvèdre, matured in demi-muids (about 10% of the volume is in amphorae this year), the 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape La Reserve is a strong candidate for perfection. Sourced from the lieux-dits of Guigasse and Pignan, the nose delivers the essence of sandy-soil Grenache, with notes of rose petals, lavender, thyme, cherries and raspberries. Full-bodied and lush, silky and long, it adds hints of toasty oak and salted licorice on the finish.

Jeb Dunnuck (96-99)

A blockbuster in the making is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape les Quartz, which is 100% Grenache from the les Cassanets lieu-dit just beside the estate. Garrigue, kirsch, black raspberries, spice, and incense notes all literally soar from the glass of this sensational red. With full-bodied richness, incredible purity, ultra-fine tannin, and a killer finish, it's going to be one of the wines of the vintage.

A unique multi-vintage blend of Brunello di Montalcino from barrels that were not ready when they first bottled the 2015 and 2016, with the addition of some 2018 to add freshness. This is a minute release of just 150 cases.

Wonderfully captivating flavours of Brunello, always very approachable and utterly delicious, with warm sun-baked aromas and lovely smooth developed finish. In fact, This is just like drinking mature Brunello di Montalcino. The palate is velvety with taut, finely-knit tannins. Precise, ripe plum fruit with Italian warmth and refined spiciness, with elegance and lift on the finish.

Wine Advocate (100)

It's an historical wine, a one-off, semi-sweet white produced at the end of the Spanish Civil War, a wine impossible to replicate, fruit of impossible circumstances, a wine I've had the luck to drink and share with many people on a number of occasions and which never fails to impress everyone. The perfect 1939 CVNE Rioja Blanco Semi Dulce Corona is a mythical wine! 1939 saw the end of Spain's Civil War, and the country was upside down. There were some major battles fought in Rioja, and by the time they had to harvest the grapes, there were not enough men in the village. They must have focused on the best parcels, surely giving priority to red grapes. Some vineyards were overlooked, as happened with the whites that eventually produced this wine. These grapes were harvested extremely late, into November, close to December and their health was not optimal, they had developed some botrytis and were clearly rotten. The people in charge of making the wine surely didn't know about botrytis cynerea, or noble rot, and were surely afraid their grapes were rotten and they would not be able to produce any decent white. So they did the best they could, but the fermentation never finished completely and there was some residual sugar in the wine. So, as they did with all their wines, they put it in oak barrels to mature and kind of put it in a corner hoping nobody would notice its shortcomings. We have to realize that CVNE was already producing quite a lot of wine at the time, so it's not unusual to have a few stray barrels here or there that nobody pays attention to. What is not that normal is that the wine was REALLY forgotten and was "found" during a stock take for an audit in 1970! So the wine aged slowly in barrel for some 30 years! Once found, nobody saw any reason to keep the wine in barrel any longer, so they decided to bottle it. Not knowing quite what to do with it, the bottles were stacked somewhere and the same story was repeated, as the stash was forgotten and basically untouched until thirty something years later: thanks to the daughter of one of the family owners (the winery is still in the hand of the same family that created it back in 1879). The proud father had a vague idea about a somewhat sweet wine that could be served at his daughter's wedding and asked to get some bottles to taste. They uncorked it, tasted it and found a complex, subtle white with great balance between alcohol, acidity and a little bit of residual sugar (around 20 grams), which took the edge off the acidity and made the wine rounder, as old Viura can be too austere. The slow aging, first in an oxidative way during the years in oak provided some nuttiness, and spicy aromas, while the botrytis added some of those dry apricot, beeswax and pollen notes, hinting on honey, but also the long reductive period in bottle made it very elegant and polished, with infinite nuances of white pepper, quince, faint smoke, walnuts, petrol...This redefines complexity, elegance and slow aging. The palate is prodigious, with a gobsmacking (literally!) balance, pungent flavors, freshness, acidity, very faint sweetness and length like only something which has slowly evolved over 70 years can be. The aftertaste should not be measured in seconds, but in minutes, and the empty glass keeps changing and giving different tones for hours. If you leave a little bit in the bottle for the day after (yes, it's difficult, I know!) the wine is even better on the second day. There is no reason to believe that if the wine is as good as it is today it is not going to reach its one-hundredth birthday. The wine is mainly Viura, but there might have been a little bit of the white Garnacha Blanca in the blend. At this stage nobody really knows (or cares). This is simply otherworldly, superb, perfect wine, whose only improvement would come if they had bottled some magnums! A dream. A unique, historical wine. If there is a perfect white Rioja, this is surely it. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2039.

Wine Advocate (93+)

The 2007 Imperial Gran Reserva is again a great wine in the making. Red fruit and plenty of spices (nutmeg), the palate shows great acidity and abundant tannins that need resolving with time in bottle. Great tension and nerve. I think it will take some time to be released, which is good as it will require some patience. Drink 2016-2021.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

This comes from vineyards in Villalba, Briones and Torremontalbo and is another brilliant release from María Larrea. Savoury, sweet and well balanced, with 15% Graciano adding extra backbone and the zest that you expect from this special red

The Champagne Guide (98)

65% Pinot mostly from Aÿ, Bouzy, Ambonnay and Verzenay; 32% chardonnay mostly from Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger; 3% meunier mostly from Pierry; 9.5g/L dosage. The finest vintages of William Deutz display profound contrasts and contradictions, juxtaposing the exacting precision of the house with the intensity of the pinot noir, and it is in the most energetic vintages that this accord finds its most alluring expression. No season exemplifies this more magnificently than 2008. It is built around depth and breadth, charged with an incredible display of the freshness of Deutz, and elevated and energised by ulta-fine, chalk-rich minerality that attains new heights of expression in this profound season. For all of its contrasts, it crucially maintains seamless persistance and breathtaking lightness. Youthful endurance is declared in vibrant lemon zest and young summer-fruit freshness, quietly touched with depth of brioche, ginger, vanilla nougat and toast. A prominent, mouth-enveloping, silky cloud of chalk dust is the grand highlight of a mesmerising finish, riding a laser-line of acidity of the utmost elegance. In a full bottle, it will live for decades, but in a half, it's irrestible right away. One of the greatest Deutz cuvees of the modern era.

Wine Advocate (96)

The profoundly rich 1990 Dom Perignon is a creamy-textured, full styled offering that loses none of its elegance in spite of its flavor authority. It will improve for 5-10 years, and appears capable of surpassing the fabulous 1985 and 1982. It seems obvious that the quality of the 1990 Champagne vintage is going to be remarkable, and the world-wide demand will be unprecedented. The message - buy them now!

Vinous (98)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon is a totally different beast. It is the product of a very long and cool growing season marked by heavy summer rains in some sectors of the region and then ideal conditions through to harvest. After a brutally torrid 2003, the vines responded by setting a huge crop. In fact, 2004 remains the most abundant vintage in the history of Champagne. The best wines, though, well, they have always impressed with their laser-like cut and focus. That’s exactly what comes through in the 2004 Dom Pérignon. Tasted from magnum, the 2004 shows all the linear energy and crystalline precision of the year, but with that extra magic that comes from fermentation and longer aging in the big bottle. The 2004 has long been one of my favorite Dom Pérignons. From magnum, it is especially captivating.

Vinous (98)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is once again stunning. More than anything else, I am surprised by how well the 2008 drinks given all the tension and energy it holds. Then again, that is precisely what makes 2008 such a unique vintage namely that the best wines are so chiseled and yet not at all austere. Lemon peel, almond, mint, smoke and crushed rocks are all finely sculpted, but it is the wine’s textural feel, drive and persistence that elevate it into the realm of the sublime. The 2008 will be even better with time in the cellar, but it is absolutely phenomenal even today, in the early going. Three recent bottles have all been nothing short of magnificent.

James Suckling (98)

A firm and vivid Champagne with a precise, focused palate. Full-bodied and dry. It’s very layered and bright with light pineapple, peach, praline, cooked-apple and stone aromas and flavors. It’s very subtle and focused at the end. Integrated with richness and high acidity. Good depth. Reminds me of the 1995. Very clean. Solid. Lovely to drink already, but will age nicely.

Decanter (98)

What a magnificent bouquet for this Dom Pérignon 2012! Pastry, a hint of smoke and autolytic notes provide a compelling counterpart to eager yet elegant aromas of citrus (lime, tangerine and kumquat) joined by those of fresh fruit, herbs, liquorice, and menthol. There is even a refreshing note of ivy. The palate is tense, vibrant, and very fresh despite its impressive density, which meets its match with an unending finish. This 2012 incarnates the very essence of Dom Pérignon with such a concentrated degree of intensity, along with a capacity for ageing, that it is surely destined for a second life in a P2 edition.

Vinous (98)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must.

Jancis Robinson (20)

Magnum. Pungent and composed with massive energy. Lovely edge of freshness. Long and nuanced. So clean and pure. Long and lovely!

Decanter (98)

The Dom Perignon Rosé 2006 is simply amazing. Notes of raspberry, spices and mint jump from the glass in a seductive combination. The texture in the mouth is of precise, crystalline, laser-like tannins in an opulent style. A very great success in a vintage that was not always easy in Champagne.

Decanter (98)

The Dom Perignon Rosé 2006 is simply amazing. Notes of raspberry, spices and mint jump from the glass in a seductive combination. The texture in the mouth is of precise, crystalline, laser-like tannins in an opulent style. A very great success in a vintage that was not always easy in Champagne.

Vinous (95)

Like its Brücke counterpart, this Auslese reflects genuinely botrytis-free grapes, said Dönnhoff, but ones that were too numerous and too high in sugar to use elsewhere, “and certainly not in the Grosses Gewächs, which would then have ended up with 14% alcohol.” Sea breeze on the nose intimates the sweet-saline savor of raw scallop that emerges on this wine’s lusciously lingering, mouthwateringly umami-rich finish. White peach and quince preserves feature throughout, reinforced on the soothingly creamy palate by nougat-like nut essences. There is an animating, juicy fresh-fruit aspect as well, and a wonderful sense of both focus and transparency to stony and ore-like nuances.

Contains 1x75cl bottle of each:

Pétrus 2014 - 93 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Lafite 2014 - 95 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Mouton Rothschild 2014 - 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

Margaux 2014 - 95 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Haut-Brion 2014 - 97 pts | Antonio Galloni (Vinous)

La Mission Haut-Brion 2014 - 96 pts | Neal Martin (Vinous)

Cheval Blanc 2014 - 95 pts | Lisa Perrotti-Brown (Wine Advocate)

D'Yquem 2014 - 96-98 pts | Neal Martin (Wine Advocate)

Jancis Robinson (17)

A bit of apple peel. Very ‘natural’. Very pure and unadorned. All top Montagne de Reims villages. Extreme champagne. Very dry finish. Lots of potential.

Decanter (97)

This dark, relatively tight-knit Rioja proves that the Gran Reserva category doesn't just indicate the supremely well-aged, relaxed and reposeful style of Rioja, but can also serve to draw drinkers' attention to outstanding wines of density and tenacity which still have a way to run along their potential ageing trajectories. Look out for dark, urgent fruits here sweetened and back-lit by cunningly angled oak, with intense, deep, fresh and searching flavours in which the 10% of Graciano seems to be working overtime. A Rioja of innate drama.

James Suckling (97)

A refined, medium-to full-bodied red with aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate, violets, tar and tobacco. Ultra fine tannins, interwoven with silky and seamless layers of dark berries. So elegant and fine. Long. Serious and focused with fantastic depth and structure. Drink or hold.

Each case contains one bottle of each:

El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Agrelo 2016 (1x75cl)
El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Chacayes 2016 (1x75cl)
El Enemigo Gran Enemigo El Cepillo 2016 (1x75cl)
El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Gualtallary 2016 (1x75cl)

Wine Advocate (100)

I was really looking forward to tasting the 2013 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard since all of the previous vintages have been truly exceptional, and I wanted to see what it would be in a cooler year. The bottled wine contains perhaps 15% Malbec in the blend, and they will soon stop mentioning Cabernet Franc on the label. It fermented in 500-liter oak barrels with 50% of the Cabernet Franc and all of the Malbec and then matured in used oak foudres. It's very intense and powerful, but at the same time, there is a kind of lightness on the palate that makes if feel light on its feet but with great inner power. There is citrus acidity that makes it effervescent and electric. It has some 7.5 grams of acidity and a pH of 3.45, very healthy parameters. The peppery character appears after some time, giving it a Chinon-like twist, and it also reminds me of my favorite Bordeaux, Pomerol's Lafleur. This is definitely world-class and worth lying down, as it should develop further complexity in bottle. This is one of those wines where the only improvement I can think of is having magnums rather than bottles. Bravo!

1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2011 – 98 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2012 – 98+ points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2013 – 100 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2014 – 98 points (WA)

El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Gualtallary is a single vineyard (Gualtallary) production combining Cabernet Franc (dominant) and Malbec. After near misses in 2011 and 2012 in 2013 this amazing duo of winemakers produced the perfect wine in 2013. Wine Advocate critic Luis Gutiérrez said the 2013 reminded him of Pomorol’s Lafleur and was “definitely world class” and “worth laying down”. The 2013 has a drinking window to 2030 and all these wines will benefit from a decade of aging. Only around 3,000 bottles are produced, of this incredible wine (far less than wines like Screaming Eagle at 5,000-9,000).

The super high scores and tiny production mean that this is a lovely vertical for collectors or investors to own.

James Suckling (95)

This has rich, lemon and lightly grassy aromas in a very fresh, pure and focused mode. Some fresh-pastry and chalky notes, too. The palate is succulent and piercing. Some smooth, lees-derived texture sits nicely around the fresh, lemon flavor with pastry-like resolve. Impressive textural complexity really makes this special. Drink over the next six years.

Decanter (95)

Lots of oak here, but so well integrated with the exceptional fruit, it’s very moreish. On the palate there’s cream, leather, toast and coffee alongside succulent red fruits including raspberry and strawberry which carries the wine beautifully. It has ripe, generous tannins offset by fine acidity with a savoury tobacco pouch finish. It’s just starting to hit its stride but has a long way to go.