Matthew Jukes (20+)

An long-forgotten image flashed into my mind when I first tasted this wine. It took me back to a visit, as a child, to a stately home. Goodness knows where this place was, but I remember walking down a long corridor when a huge door opened to my left. As I walked past, I caught a glimpse of the most glamorous and beautifully decorated room beyond the person holding the door ajar. The door closed, and I passed by, but this image has stuck with me ever since. This momentary glimpse of incredible splendour is echoed in this magnificent wine. It starts midnight black in the glass, then as one focuses on the surface, can one see stars? Interestingly, it finishes black, too, in the form of ultra-fine sooty tannins that caress the taste buds as the flavour senesces. Between these two moments of perfect calm, there is layer upon layer of splendour and magnificence. The keyword for this vintage is ‘proportion’, as I found out half an hour through the presentation. It is an inspired choice because every element of 2020 Ornellaia is in scintillating proportion. 2020 Ornellaia represents more than harmony or balance and more than composure and equilibrium – it is truly in perfect proportion. In fact, I have never tasted a vintage of Ornellaia like it. There is a sense of greatness here, both in the intensity of the fruit and also its freshness and lift on the nose and palate – it is astonishing. The Cabernet theme (the blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot) is dominant both in the primary fruit notes but also in the signature flavours. Merlot adds glossiness and also traction, while Cabernet Franc appears to add grace and also crispness and aromatic flourishes. Petit Verdot acts as the invisible welds that pin this magnificent structure together – a complete three-dimensional flavour with no apparent flaws whatsoever. This wine will undoubtedly drink early in its life, given the silkiness and generosity on display, but it will not genuinely get into its stride for a decade, and I feel it will take another decade for it to blossom fully. My childlike fascination with today’s glimpse into the glass will no doubt grow into a full-blown stroll around this wine with the door flung open wide in years to come. This wine will prove to those with the good fortune to own it that its best is yet to come, so be patient in spite of its early allure. Until then, I do not doubt that it is a work of perfect proportion, so I am delighted to award it my first-ever perfect score for Ornellaia.

Vinous (91)

The 2018 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is fresh, fruity and an absolute delight to taste. Crushed red berry fruit, spice and floral notes abound, giving the 2018 an effusive character that is impossible to miss. Silky and gracious, the 2018 will drink well upon release. The purity of the flavors here is really quite lovely.

James Suckling (91)

This is very Mediterranean in character with sage and rosemary to the blackberry and tar aromas. It’s medium-to full-bodied with medium, chewy tannins and a savory finish. Black-pepper undertones with cloves. Drink now.

Decanter (95)

From Gaiole, with free-draining soils, the land has formed a natural amphitheatre with southwest-facing slopes at 500m. The 2016 vintage produced intensely aromatic, structured wines. After hand-harvesting, the wine was fermented in stainless steel with regular breaking of the cap, before being transferred to Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months. Aldo Fiordelli: Dense on the palate with silky ripe tannins, cherry fruit and a concentration of darker fruit, along with perfectly integrated structure. A great wine, with great potential. Andrew Jefford: Sweet and elegant aromas: fine leather, fresh red fruits, bay leaf, underbrush, a hint of fungi porcini – everything you hope for, quietly expressed. Intense and vibrant: a super wine. More dominated by its acidity than many, but that acidity is singingly bright and packed with fruit flavour. The tannins are like silk rope: smooth yet ample and gathered. Very beautiful and engaging, long, concentrated and intense. Monty Waldin: Clear, precise ripe red fruit, lovely balance and compactness to this. Drinking Window 2020 - 2028

James Suckling (97)

This white offers serious layers of fruit and acidity with fantastically complex apples, honey blossom, nuts and walnuts on the nose and palate. It’s full-bodied, yet fresh and vivid. Acidity and fruit is all there. Soulful is the word. An exceptional wine that shows such complexity and beauty. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Vinous (96)

The 2018 Bòggina C (Bòggina Classico) is another superb wine from Petrolo. Here, Sangiovese is aged in oak, which gives the wine more mid-palate depth and broader shoulders, which, frankly, the wine seems to benefit from. Dark cherry, licorice, leather, spice and menthol build as the 2018 shows everything its got. Impressive.

James Suckling (96)

Very racy and refined with bright acidity and a blueberry and dark-chocolate character. Love the interplay of acidity and ripe fruit. Minerals and dark fruits, too. Very Pomerol. Pure merlot.

James Suckling (99)

Terrific aromas of violets, roses and raspberries with hints of strawberries and brown sugar. Full body. Phenomenal layers of focused fruit and polished velvety tannins. This is the Galatrona that everyone has been waiting for. It's the vintage that shows depth and power yet wonderful finesse and focus. Best ever. Drink from 2023 but already electrifying.

Wine Advocate (98)

This is the flagship wine from Luca Sanjust's Petrolo estate located not too far from Arezzo in the Valdarno area of eastern Tuscany. The 2016 Galatrona is indeed a masterpiece to behold. This wine offers thick layering and deep intensity with aromas that offer an incredible range, starting off with luscious dark chocolate on one side and ending with fragrant white truffle on the far end of its long aromatic trajectory. You get plummy fruit, spice, sweet tobacco and tilled earth packed tight in between. This full-bodied Merlot is softly textured and succulent with long-lasting flavor intensity on the close. Petrolo's Merlot is planted in a ten-hectare parcel distinguished by thick clay soils. I have been watching Galatrona's evolution for years and have tasted the wine on occasion in various vertical tastings. This is my favorite vintage made thus far.

James Suckling (99)

Blackberries and black cherries with lavender and violets on the nose. Full-bodied with velvety, chewy tannins, yet the fruit is very intense with vibrancy and energy. Muscular, yet agile. Pure and poised. A unique definition of merlot in Tuscany. Drink after 2025.

James Suckling (95)

A red with plenty of blackberry, black-olive, floral and oyster-shell character. It’s full-bodied, yet layered, extremely polished and beautiful. A dusty texture. Hazelnut and walnut undertones. From organically grown grapes. A little more merlot and cabernet sauvignon in the blend. Gorgeous now, but better after 2021 and onwards.

Wine Advocate (94+)

The youngest of the reds I tasted, the 2019 Pícaro del Águila Tinto is their most approachable red and is still serious, vibrant and aromatic with great length and still has good aging potential. They use the grapes from the warmest vineyards they have in the village of La Aguilera, form the northern part closer to La Horra, mostly Tempranillo but with some 5% of other varieties (red and white) interplanted in the old vineyards, fermented together with full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in French oak barrels for 15 months. Like the 2019 Clarete, this is young and tender and has more tension than I expected for a warmer year. It has less oak than previous years (only 10% or 15% new barrels), and the wine feels better balanced and is floral and aromatic. It's medium-bodied with a very fine texture, a pretty wine that drinks very well and doesn't reflect a warm year at all, as it has incredible freshness. A great Pícaro. They produced 69,852 bottles and 850 magnums, a notable increase in volume... while they increase the quality! It was bottled in February 2021.

Wine Advocate (95+)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pure and classic expression of the vintage with bright fruit tones, wild cherry, toasted nut, blue flower and forest floor. Whereas the other wines in the Poggio Antico portfolio undergo aging in smaller tonneaux, this wine is aged in large Slavonian casks instead. You taste the lift and brightness of the fruit, and it's all quite lovely. Grapes are sourced across a 13-hectare site at a very high 500 meters in elevation. The name of this area is I Poggi, and the soils here are a bit lighter and rockier with both schistous galestro and limestone alberese. I love the delicate approach here, the intensity of those floral aromas, and the silky nature of the mouthfeel. Some 34,000 bottles will be released in January 2021. This classic Brunello really stands out.

Wine Advocate (97)

The Poggio Antico 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (with 9,000 bottles going to market in January 2021) is a thickly textured and rich wine with fruit-driven flavors and extra fiber. The wine sings with the characteristics of this vintage that will be remembered for the sunshine, the warmth and the picture-perfect fruit. Each cluster hung from the vine with glorious perfection. There is more warmth and dark plum intensity here for sure, and you also get greater latitude in terms of those savory tones of leather, tobacco and tilled earth. The Riserva is sourced from the Il Vignone site at a high 500 meters above sea level where summer breezes keep the grapes healthy and ripe.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (97)

This was an exceptional year in Brunello and straight away you are struck by the depth of expression, and the tannic heft and width. Plenty of raspberry, rose petal and red cherry puree along with blackberry, campfire and brioche notes. A classic, signature Brunello with all that you expect from a 2016 in the region. Absolutely one to look out for, moreish, saline-streaked, mouthwatering and walks the line of power and finesse. This is just approaching the sweet spot for drinking but will hold. 30 months in bottle after 30 months in barrel. Slavonian oak casks for ageing.

Wine Advocate (96)

Poggio di Sotto doesn't miss a beat with this very special release. This is a glorious expression of the vintage, and the wine has absorbed the golden sunlight of Tuscany, delivering beautifully ripe, round and subtle fruit layers. The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino shows concentration, but not too much, and richness, but not too much. You get the power and the opulence of the vintage presented with the elegance and grace that is the house style at this venerated estate. Poggio di Sotto is one of the benchmarks of Montalcino, and the winery team continues the tradition with this 22,000-bottle release. There's a lot of red fruit energy deep inside that should stir this wine on course as it ages over the next two decades.

Wine Advocate (95)

This wine has more in common with a Brunello than it does a Rosso. Made with certified-organic fruit, Poggio di Sotto's 2018 Rosso di Montalcino is a very fine and smooth expression that caresses the senses. The bouquet is enlivened by forest berry, peat moss, lilac and wildflowers. The 2018 vintage is usually understated in personality, but this wine speaks of elegance and nuance. It's just stunning.

Vinous (95+)

The 2014 Il Carbonaione is one of the truly exceptional wines of this challenging season. Lithe and aromatic on the palate, with fabulous energy and overall brightness, it stands out for its superb balance. In many vintages, Il Carbonaione can be a bit bombastic. The 2014, on the other hand, is all finesse. Violet, lavender and cloves add shades of nuance to this bright, beautifully persistent Carbonaione. The 2014 won't be at its best for at least a few years, but its potential is evident.

James Suckling (97)

Intense aromas of blue fruit, lavender and violets. Some sandalwood, too. Full-bodied with firm, silky tannins and beautiful fruit. Really racy and refined with excellent length. Drinkable now, but a few years of bottle age will make it even more beautiful. Try after 2023.

Decanter (97)

Gorgeous spicy black fruit and prune nose. Round, ripe tannins and precise blackberry fruit on the palate with great character and hints of spice box and cedarwood. An outstanding Ribera with prodigious length and persistence.

Wine Advocate (93)

La Gundiñas is the wine that shows the most differences between 2017 and 2018. The 2017 La Vizcaína Las Gundiñas is dark and concentrated, a wine of sun, while the 2018 is delicate and feels like a mini Bonnes Mares! This is quite like a Cornas—meaty, juicy, a little reticent and powerful, with abundant tannins. This is one wine that behaves better in 2017 than in 2016. This is a plot that has ups and down; it might be more regular in the future, as they finally bought it in 2018. Some 5,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2019.

Wine Advocate (95+)

There is a bit of an animal hint on the nose of the 2018 La Vizcaína El Rapolao, which Raúl Pérez tells me is always part of the character of the wine when it's young. The difference with the 2017 is the quality of the tannins, which rounder and more elegant here, and the concentration, which is lower here, so this 2018 comes through as more fluid, fresh and elegant, with a silkier mouthfeel. They finally bought the vineyard in 2018, and the change in viticulture resulted in lower yields: they produced 6,000 bottles of this 2018, compared with the 10,000 bottles of the 2017. They have bought three more plots for this bottling, so volumes will grow in the future. The initial sensation fades after the wine has been in bottle for one hour, and it makes sense that it's gong to disappear with some more time in bottle. Pérez thinks it might be related to the recent bottling. It was bottled in May 2020, a few weeks before I tasted it.

Vinous (94)

Shimmering violet. Intensely perfumed aromas of dark berries, cherry pit, incense, exotic spices and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral flourish that builds in the glass. Densely packed and chewy on the palate, showing excellent depth and bright mineral lift to the sappy black and blue fruit, spicecake and violet pastille flavors. Gains energy with air and finishes impressively long and juicy, polished tannins building slowly and harmonizing with the wine's mineral-tinged fruit.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.

James Suckling (100)

Earthy aromas of bark, sand, truffles, graphite, rust, terracotta and sandalwood rise up from the deep with Burgundian poise; fruitier orange zest and preserved lemons glimmer in their wake, while riper incense and tar lurk in this dense forest of aromas. Physics itself gives way as the line between reduction and oxidation is blurred. There’s such richness to the center palate, but the fruit there is vivacious and elegant, swaddled in robust but generous tannins that breach the outermost reaches of the mouth. The finish is hauntingly long, the after effects of the acidity unworldly. This is certainly in a quiet, reserved stage of evolution, and will need time to fully mature in bottle. Drink in 2025.

Wine Advocate (94+)

This is a historic Tuscan wine, with the first vintage produced in 1968. The San Felice 2016 Vigorello is a blend of the Tuscan indigenous grape Pugnitello, with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. It offers depth, intensity and a profound level of dark fruit with blackberry, plum, spice, earth and campfire ash. Robust and softly textured, it has the length and power to pair with a juicy leg of lamb with white beans and rosemary potatoes. An ample 40,000 examples of this lovely vintage were made.

Wine Spectator (97)

Plenty of balsamic aromas preview this red, settling into a core of macerated cherry and plum fruit, framed by juniper, thyme, Scotch broom, tar and iodine. Racy and harmonious, with a solid layer of tannins underneath. Best from 2024 through 2047. 1,300 cases made, 700 cases imported.

James Suckling (98)

This is an incredible 2012 with fantastic depth, richness, focus and tension. Full body, polished velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Goes on for minutes. Better in 2020 but a joy to taste now. One of the wines of the vintage.