Wine Advocate (100)

I was really looking forward to tasting the 2013 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard since all of the previous vintages have been truly exceptional, and I wanted to see what it would be in a cooler year. The bottled wine contains perhaps 15% Malbec in the blend, and they will soon stop mentioning Cabernet Franc on the label. It fermented in 500-liter oak barrels with 50% of the Cabernet Franc and all of the Malbec and then matured in used oak foudres. It's very intense and powerful, but at the same time, there is a kind of lightness on the palate that makes if feel light on its feet but with great inner power. There is citrus acidity that makes it effervescent and electric. It has some 7.5 grams of acidity and a pH of 3.45, very healthy parameters. The peppery character appears after some time, giving it a Chinon-like twist, and it also reminds me of my favorite Bordeaux, Pomerol's Lafleur. This is definitely world-class and worth lying down, as it should develop further complexity in bottle. This is one of those wines where the only improvement I can think of is having magnums rather than bottles. Bravo!

1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2011 – 98 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2012 – 98+ points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2013 – 100 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2014 – 98 points (WA)

El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Gualtallary is a single vineyard (Gualtallary) production combining Cabernet Franc (dominant) and Malbec. After near misses in 2011 and 2012 in 2013 this amazing duo of winemakers produced the perfect wine in 2013. Wine Advocate critic Luis Gutiérrez said the 2013 reminded him of Pomorol’s Lafleur and was “definitely world class” and “worth laying down”. The 2013 has a drinking window to 2030 and all these wines will benefit from a decade of aging. Only around 3,000 bottles are produced, of this incredible wine (far less than wines like Screaming Eagle at 5,000-9,000).

The super high scores and tiny production mean that this is a lovely vertical for collectors or investors to own.

James Suckling (95)

This has rich, lemon and lightly grassy aromas in a very fresh, pure and focused mode. Some fresh-pastry and chalky notes, too. The palate is succulent and piercing. Some smooth, lees-derived texture sits nicely around the fresh, lemon flavor with pastry-like resolve. Impressive textural complexity really makes this special. Drink over the next six years.

Tim Atkin MW (96)

This incredible, isolated site produces one of my favourite Malbecs, not just in the north but also in the whole of Argentina. Pepper, savoury and intense, with expertly handled second and third-use oak, suave tannins, notes of bramble and red berry fruit and long, balanced, nuanced finish. Superb winemaking. 2022-31

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Now striding into its fourth vintage, Alto Los Cuises is a brilliant Malbec from a unique site of bush vines on rocky soils. Fermented with some whole bunches, it’s a red that’s partly inspired by the wines of Burgundy, with sappy, floral white pepper and raspberry flavours, fresh acidity and the faintest hint of wood spice.

Wine Advocate (94-96+)

Despite coming in at 15.2% alcohol, the 2018 Saint Joseph La Dardouille shows absolutely no alcohol-derived heat. With accents of crushed stone, pencil shavings and violets layered over deep cassis and blueberry fruit, this wine should prove outstanding. It's full-bodied, concentrated and richly textured, with a long, vibrant and intensely-flavored finish that also manages to be elegant. Wow.

Jeb Dunnuck (96-99)

From a miniscule one-hectare parcel right across from Clinet, on the upper plateau of Pomerol, the 2018 Enclos Tourmaline is a blockbuster in the making, and I suspect it’s going to give the 2016 a run for its money. Checking in as a 100% Merlot raised in new oak, which hit 14.7% natural alcohol, this inky color blockbuster boasts a massive bouquet of black fruits, smoke herbs, chocolate, and damp earth. It shows a more floral edge with time in the glass and it’s full-bodied, concentrated, and plush on the palate, with sweet tannins. It’s certainly one of the sexiest wines in this terrific vintage. Hats off to vineyard manager and winemaker Jérôme Aguirre as well as consultant Michel Rolland for another brilliant wine in the making. Tasted twice.

Espérance de Trotanoy is the second wine of Château Trotanoy. This Merlot-dominated wine is made from vines averaging 35 years. Espérance de Trotanoy is made from the same vines, same wine-making team and same facilities as the first wine. It is produced in very limited quantities and only in exceptional years. It is vinified in small concrete vats and aged in French oak barrels.

This 2016 has a darkly berried, gently leafy nose, with pure violet aromatics. The palate is textured, with dried-earth minerality, lifted by arching acidity, which makes this hugely approachable and perhaps offers a glimpse into the character of Trotanoy 2016 itself in years to come. There is more than enough ageing potential and tannic rigour here to see this through a decade and more.

Vinous (95)

(25 hectoliters per hectare): Full, dark red. Tight, primary, slightly reduced aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and minerals. Densely packed, rich and broad; a distinctly horizontal, pliant style of Clos Vougeot, no doubt a function of the very warm, sunny vintage. Today this is sweeter and more open-knit than the Grands-Echézeaux but both of these wines should easily age for two decades or more. (Mallard noted that on some days this wine comes across as stricter, more Cistercian.) Finishes with spicy, ripe tannins and terrific energy and length.

Vinous (94)

The 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is well defined and precise, with cranberry, raspberry and vibrant red cherry scents that soar from the glass. The oak here is very well assimilated. The well-balanced palate offers fine but firm tannins that frame the black cherry and raspberry fruit. Lovely tension and mineralité on the finish, which delivers just the right amount of spice and length. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

Wine Advocate (92-94+)

The 2017 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is a great success, unfurling in the glass with aromas of blackberries, wild berries, rich soil tones and espresso roast, framed by a lavish but nicely integrated touch of toasty new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and layered, with a generous core of ripe but juicy fruit, concluding with an expansive, saline finish. While this is quite giving and charming by the standards of the appellation, it's the most concentrated wine in the Eugénie portfolio this year, and will likely prove the longest lived.

Wine Advocate (93-95)

The king of the cellar chez Coche this year is the 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, a beautiful wine that unfurls in the glass with scents of white peach, oatmeal, spring flowers and subtle spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and satiny, with a deep, concentrated core, lovely purity and a bright, precise finish. This is a classic in the making that will reward cellaring.

Vinous (91-93)

Bright ruby-red. Captivating violet and lavender lift to the aromas of black cherry, menthol and bitter chocolate. Juicy, energetic and sharply delineated, showing terrific thrust to its dark fruit, licorice and spice flavors. I would have picked this blind as a 2013. This will require at least several years of bottle aging.

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Lastly, the 2016 Ermitage Le Méal is the top wine from Ferraton, and rightly so, as it’s a magical wine in 2016. Rocking notes of black raspberries, blackberries, toasted spices, tapenade, and dry aged beef all emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with a wealth of material yet stays balanced, layered, and seamless. It's a sensational wine that's up with the top wines of the vintage. Hats off to the team at Ferraton for this remarkable wine as well as their full lineup of wines in 2016.

Vinous - Neal Martin (98+)

The 2016 Figeac has a nose of real pedigree, featuring very well-defined, ferrous black fruit with hints of truffle and tobacco and conveying exceptional mineralité and tension. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, a fine bead of acidity and wonderful structure and density toward the finish. This is a seriously fine proposition, although it is a surly Saint-Émilion that may well close down for a while before blazing brightly in 15–20 years’ time. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

The Wine Independent (100)

Composed of 36% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Merlot, the 2019 Figeac is deep garnet-purple colored. It needs considerable swirling to coax out its alluring perfume of redcurrant jelly, juicy blackcurrants, and blackberries, with underlying suggestions of candied violets, chocolate box, fragrant earth, and lavender plus a touch of crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a mind-blowing array of layers with exceptionally ripe, fine-grained tannins and jaw-dropping tension, leading to a fantastically persistent mineral and floral-tinged finish that makes your heart stop. With its energy, structure, and incredible depth, truly, this is a towering triumph.

Wine Advocate (96+)

Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2016 Fonplegade opens with a very savory nose of smoked meats, tapenade, sautéed herbs and beef drippings over a core of plum preserves, chocolate-covered cherries and cedar chest plus wafts of violets and cigars. Medium to full-bodied, the palate possesses both intensity and elegance, with the black fruit layers superbly framed by firm, fine-grained tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing long and mineral laced.

Vinous (95)

The 2016 La Grande Rue Grand Cru has a very pure, almost pastille-like bouquet with copious red cherry fruit mixed with crushed strawberry and a little cassis. La Grande Rue? [Post script: Bingo!] The palate is very pretty with fine-grain tannin. This is surfeit with freshness and vitality, although it does not quite have the depth and structure of other Grand Crus from the appellation. It does fan out towards the finish. The persistence, and the saline aftertaste are very appealing. Excellent. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

Vinous (96)

The 2017 La Grande Rue has a deep, introspective bouquet, offering more black fruit than red; touches of oyster shell and seaweed percolate through with time. The palate is where the quality shines through, in the filigreed tannins and the wonderful sense of symmetry. Fresh as a daisy without compromising intensity, especially on the pixelated finish, which seems to go on forever. Brilliant. This far exceeded my expectations. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (94)

Touch of reduction, with flint and gunsmoke adding focus and interest. Stands out for its grip and tension and a feeling of depth to the stone and citrus fruit. Touches of green apple and gooseberry also.

Indulge your senses with Geantet Pansiot Vosne-Romanee 2017, a premium offering from the renowned Burgundy vineyards of France. Exceptionally crafted by the illustrious Geantet Pansiot family, who have been honing their winemaking skills since 1954, this wine masterfully captures the delicate balance between tradition and innovation. The climate, predominantly Continental, and the limestone-clay soils of Vosne-Romanee impart distinctive characteristics to this wine.

Authentic to its roots, the Geantet Pansiot Vosne-Romanee 2017 showcases intricate layers of cherry, dark berries and violets, embraced by silky tannins and a lean mineral thread. Exceptional ageing potential adds to its appeal. Utilising organic farming methods, the grapes were handpicked at their peak of ripeness and aged in French oak barrels, resulting in a sophisticated wine that speaks volumes of its terroir. Experience the culmination of heritage, passion and finesse with the Geantet Pansiot Vosne-Romanee 2017.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2010 Nuits St. Georges Les Chaignots wraps around the palate with layers of black fruit, spices and menthol. It shows fabulous depth and richness in a relatively full-bodied, opulent style for the domaine. It comes across as quite open and ready for business, although it is hard for me to see this not shutting down in bottle.

Ascend to the zenith of viticultural excellence with the tantalising Giraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2020. This stellar vintage emerges from the esteemed house of Giraud, a family-run estate headquartered in the historic, sun-drenched vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France. Remarkably, the Giraud siblings’ dedication to organic viticulture yields grapes of supreme quality from their old Grenache vines. Superior manual harvest and rigorous berry selection culminate in a wine that exudes impeccable purity.

Fortuitously, the 2020 vintage marks a feat in the winemaking world with its profound concentration and balance. Burgeoning with dark berry flavours and sprinkles of spice, the Giraud Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition 2020 tastefully acknowledges its terroir's earthy and stony streaks. Veering towards full-bodied, its palate-coating, silky tannins and vibrant acidity add to the harmony. Aged predominantly in old oak foudres, this French red encapsulates the beauty and finesse of the Southern Rhône valley, offering a wine experience par excellence in every sip.

James Suckling (96-97)

Lots of deep blue fruit with blackberries and grape skins, as well as tar and asphalt. Lead, too. It’s full-bodied, yet very tight with powerful, defined tannins, surrounded by attractive ripe fruit. Serious. Reminds me of the excellent 1975. A blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot.