Halliday Wine Companion (96)

Comprises 40/33/27% pinot noir/chardonnay/pinot meunier, 73% grands and premiers crus. The low dosage of 2g/l and the warm vintage allow the fruit-based flavours free rein - white peach, Granny Smith apple and nectarine. The finish and aftertaste remain fresh and long. A house in grand form.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Created in 1988 as a tribute to Elisabeth Salmon, one of the House’s founders, this is the latest release and it has already benefitted from a remarkable ten years on its lees, because my sample was disgorged in October 2020. Made from 76% Grands Crus and 24% Premiers Crus, 55% Pinot Noir comes from Bouzy, Ambonnay, Verzy, Verzenay, Mareuil-sur-Äy and Äy and 45% Chardonnay comes from Chouilly, Cramant and Mesnil-sur-Oger. 9% red wine was added from Valofroy, a parcel of particularly old vines (60+ years old in 2008) situated high up on the hill above the winery in Mareuil. And 17% of the wine was vinified at low temperature in oak barrels which are, on average, 15 years old. The dosage is 7g/L. For the very first time, Elisabeth is available in magnums. I enjoyed an energetic tasting with Mathieu Roland-Billecart and he explained that this 2008 vintage seems like it has stolen the finest parts of each of the 1996 (tension), 2002 (layers of flavour) and the 2007 (refinement) and rolled them all into one wine! In a way, this is a fabulous analogy, but there is more to this vintage than meets the eye. The freshness and acidity here are both spectacular. These notes underpin the refined flavour with jolts of electricity which gather to form bolts of lightning. This is a young wine and yet the tenderness of the fruit is perfectly counterpointed by the shocking youthfulness on the finish. I cannot believe that 13 years have passed in the blink of an eye and so this means that 2008 Elisabeth might well be one of the slowest to age and longest-lived wines under this label to date. Having said this, the fruit is already magnificent. Mathieu asked me if I was familiar with the great French dessert clafoutis! At once a cherry clafoutis aroma arose from the glass, with faint notes of ginger blossom, saffron and white pepper. This is a crystalline and yet kaleidoscopic wine with fractals of flavour which splinter and shiver on the palate. It is high-tensile at the same time as being fragile and demure. It is everything Elisabeth would have wanted in her namesake wine.

The Champagne Guide (99)

"(disgorged in 2012; 60% Montagne de Reims pinot noir, 40% Côte des Blancs chardonnay; 18% barrel-fermented in old oak casks; partial malolactic fermentation; 4g/L dosage)... Even at 13 years of age it upholds brilliant primary definition of icy lemon citrus, with only subtle graceful evolution of nougat and butter, promising decades of potential yet. As always, the greatness of Billecart is proclaimed not by impact or power, but by slowly rising complexity and profound chalk mineral presence. Its cascade of minerality is very fine, to the point of silkiness, yet simultaneously poised and confident. Delightful poise and intricate craftsmanship proclaim one of the great Billecarts of the modern era, a champagne with many characters and subplots to reveal, to be enjoyed slowly in the presence of the most intimate company--and ideally not for at least another decade.

Jancis Robinson MW (19)

Disgorged October 2010. Tasted blind. Something a bit rubbery on the nose but very tense and exciting. Is this the 2008? Tense and vibrant, with lots of complexity and persistence. Impressive for its age.

Wine Spectator (97)

This goes from zero to 60 right out of the gate, with an intense spine of acidity driving tightly meshed flavors of crushed black currant, ground coffee, candied grapefruit peel and toasted almond. The profile expands on the palate, carried by the fine, raw silk–like mousse. Richly aromatic and expressive from start to lasting, spiced finish. Disgorged July 2019. Drink now through 2037. 850 cases imported.

Decanter (97)

An enticingly rewarding nose of apricot, flint and toast leads to a palate that's just as good and even more developed, with honey, brioche marzipan and bruised apple notes. It has super tension and drive. Compelling, delicious and distinctive.

Wine Enthusiast (98)

The wine's name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its lees in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028.

Wine Advocate (97-99)

I was blown away by the prodigious fruit in the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Chante le Merle Vieilles Vignes. Quantities are only maybe half of the 2016, so you can imagine how concentrated and rich this baby is. Waves of raspberry and cherry fruit are seductive on the nose, then crash over the palate with a tsunami of concentration and power. If time in the cellar can coax some additional elegance out of the wine, it could be a candidate for perfection.

Decanter (95)

Bouchard have some of the biggest holdings of Corton-Charlemagne, at 3.9ha, all of them east-facing and high on the slope. This is perfumed and intense, with citrus rind and tangerine notes, chalky freshness and old-vine concentration. The oak is assertive but well integrated.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2018 Boutisse is every bit as compelling as it was en primeur. Racy red berry fruit, mint, rose petal, mocha and blood orange lend brightness and energy. Medium in body and pliant, with refined tannins, the 2018 hits all the right notes. This is such a racy, finessed Saint-Émilion. It will drink well with minimal cellaring.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac is powerful, structured and explosive in feel. A deep, resonant wine, the 2015 boasts off the charts ripeness allied to formidable structure and tannic heft. I imagine the 2015 is going to need a number of years to become approachable and more than that to be at its best. The dark stone fruit, smoke, tobacco, spice and leather flavors pack a huge punch, but it is the wine's balance that places it among the elite on the Left Bank in 2015. Brane-Cantenac is a total pleasure bomb. I can't wait to taste it with a little bottle age.

Vinous (96)

The 2016 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a generous and pleasing nose with scents of strawberry preserve, crushed stone, rose petals and subtle orange-blossom. This is refined and transparent. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins. Beautifully balanced, this has a symmetry that is beguiling and classic. A little austere finish suggests it will benefit from several years in bottle. Utterly beguiling with enormous ageing potential. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting.

Vinous (98)

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has an open, generous bouquet of predominantly red fruit, a little earthier than its peers but still gaining intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins. It’s a little creamy in texture because of the oak, but there is plenty of fruit here and an almost sorbet-like freshness on the finish. Blimey... this surpasses all expectations and is contender for wine of the vintage. Brilliant. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

Vinous (93)

(13.5% alcohol; from east/southeast-facing vines with some tempering influence from the nearby woods): Bright full red. Complex, expressive scents of wild strawberry, raspberry, dried flowers, spices and earth. Dense, saline and sweet, with its strawberry, underbrush and smoky mineral flavors giving it surprising early seductiveness, but this wine has the concentration and backbone to evolve slowly. Very long and flavorful on the aftertaste.

Wine Advocate (93-95)

The 2020 Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martin unwinds in the glass with scents of freshly baked bread, wet stones, white currants, confit citrus and crisp green orchard fruit. Full-bodied, ample and seamless, it's layered and racy, with broad shoulders, bright acids and a long, mineral finish. Its elegant profile belies considerable reserves of chalky structuring extract that will make this a wine for the long haul.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)

The 2012 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a beautiful, expressive wine that captures the natural richness and radiance so typical of the year. Tropical accents, lemon confit and white flowers all meld together. On the palate, the 2012 is quite resonant, and yet it remains translucent and light on its feet. There is so much to admire in this racy Blanc de Blancs from Bruno Paillard. Disgorged: April, 2019.

The Roca Gianaca 2020 we have on offer today is a white of serious Burgundian pedigree. The vineyard has been consulted, trained, and analysed by Bruno Clavelier, a famous vigneron from Vosne Romanée; and the barrels used for ageing have been sourced directly from Domaine Ramonet. Indeed a seriously treated wine from vineyard to bottling, the Roca Gianaca is made from 100% Vermentino.

Wine Advocate (98+)

Composed of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc and aged for 18 months in 70% new French barriques, the 2016 Canon is medium to deep garnet-purple in color, and—WOW—it opens with the most stunning perfume of violets, red roses and kirsch, giving way to a core of black cherry preserves, chocolate box, licorice, warm plums and Chinese five spice plus an earthy waft of underbrush. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely filled with expressive, perfumed black berry layers accented by lively red fruits and exotic spices, supported by impressively fine-grained tannins and fantastic tension, finishing very long with jaw-dropping energy. Tasted three times, I had one opportunity to taste the 2015 and 2016 Canon side by side. While I love the bold, rich, seductive nature of the 2015, this 2016 kicks it up a notch in terms of polish, precision, depth and persistence. Most notably, the superbly ripe, exquisitely fine-grained tannins on this 2016 bring to the table a whole other level of sophistication. Bravo!

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98)

The 2018 Canon is every bit as magnificent from bottle as it was from barrel. Maybe more so. Vertical and explosive in the glass, Canon sizzles with tension and vibrancy. Readers will find a majestic, soaring Grand Cru Classé that captures all the magic of Saint-Émilion's limestone plateau. Canon exudes mind-blowing precision and deliciousness. It is another magnificent effort from Technical Director Nicolas Audebert and his team.

The Wine Independent (100)

Composed of 74% Merlot and 26% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Canon is deep garnet-purple in color. It offers up fragrant notes of mocha, violets, and licorice over a core of plum preserves and wild blueberries, plus a waft of Indian spices. The full-bodied palate is full-on gorgeous, delivering bright, energetic black and blue fruit layers with a lively backbone and super-fine, perfectly ripe tannins, finishing long, long, long.

Jeb Dunnuck (97)

The 2019 Château Canon-La-Gaffelière is another brilliantly perfumed wine in the vintage that shines for its complexity, finesse, and nuances. Giving up awesome notes of red and black currants, tobacco, exotic flowers, cedarwood, and loamy earth, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, beautifully polished, integrated tannins, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. This is serious juice that warrants at least 4-5 years of bottle age and will evolve for 30 to 40 years.

James Suckling (96-97)

Fantastic depth of fruit with layers of firm, chewy tannins that are medium-grained and long in the mouth. Full and dynamic. One of the best ever.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (93)

The 2017 Carmes de Rieussec is dazzling. Here, too, the winemaking team captured a striking balance of richness and energy. Most second wines from Sauternes these days are light and floral. The Carmes has plenty of those qualities, but it is far from an easygoing Sauternes; rather it packs a serious punch. Lemon confit, passion fruit, exotic flowers and mint meld into the creamy, resonant finish.

James Suckling (96-97)

This is very classically structured with a palate that starts off slowly. Full-bodied and chewy with a soft, creamy texture and a long finish. Savory. A touch austere. 52% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 3% cabernet franc, the rest petit verdot.

Decanter (97)

Coffee, tobacco and oak on the nose. The palate is juicy and balanced with pronounced blackcurrant and smoke spice. There's a good expression of black fruit on the finish.

Wine Advocate (88)

The estate's bargain-priced entry-level red, the 2016 Les Vignes de Bila Haut is a smooth, streamlined blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Carignan, aged exclusively in concrete vats. Medium to full-bodied, it boasts cool herbal aromas of garrigue alongside ripe cherries, then it caps those off with a fine-textured, silky finish. Drink it in its first few years.

Wine Advocate (90)

Bila Haut's entry-level white is a super value. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Macabeu, Vermentino and Marsanne, the 2017 Côtes du Roussillon les Vignes de Bila Haut Blanc is plump, round and richly textured in the mouth, yet it's also refreshing, with vibrant flavors of tangerine zest underscored by briny notes on the finish.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another perfect wine in the lineup is the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, and white wine simply doesn’t get any better. I’ve never found another white that conveys a sense minerality and liquid rock like this cuvée, and the 2020 offers a piercing bouquet of white currants, quince, honeyed flowers, charcoal, and scorched earth, with celery seed and wild fennel notes developing with air. A huge, rich, massive wine, it has awesome purity and precision and a great finish. It’s one of my favorite white wines in the world. This demands 3-5 years of bottle age and will have 20, 30, if not 40 years of longevity, although I find estimating the evolution of Hermitage Blanc one of the most challenging and difficult parts of the job.

Wine Advocate (100)

Always the earliest-ripening portion of the Chapoutier holdings on the Hermitage hill, the 2017 Ermitage le Méal is a complete standout. Crème de framboise notes remain fresh and lively throughout, joined by hints of blueberry, baking spices and vanilla, while the tannins are silky, the mouthfeel generous and the overall impression is one of great seductiveness and elegance.