Wine Advocate (100)

Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, the 1990 Montrose is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc (almost identical to the 1989 Montrose) and picked between 14 September and 3 October. It has a formidable reputation and for years it overshadowed the 1989. That said, it is well known that there are incidences of brettanomyces that compromise some bottles and the one bottle in London showed just a tincture of this. It still merited a score of 97/100, though it only served to highlight the ethereal delineation of the 1989. Then literally a couple of days later. I was served blind a magnum of the 1990 Montrose in Cape Town, which had been purchased on release and stored in perfect conditions. Now, here was the real deal, unfettered by any infection, a regal Saint Estèphe. It shows approximately the same evolution as the 1989 in bottle, but unsurprisingly showed less bricking in magnum format. The bouquet is cut from a different cloth to the 1989 and attests to that warm vintage: hickory, clove, undergrowth and wild fennel, later garrigue-like scents and terracotta, the latter two more pronounced on the bottle format compared to the youthful magnum. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, yet the balance is perfect, a ballerina-like poise with the structure of the Forth Bridge. It is a multi-layered Montrose that offers enormous length, fresh and vibrant with the magnum demonstrating tangible mineralite and tension as it fans out on the crescendo of a finish—a fanfare for Saint Estèphe in all its glory. Improving all the time in the glass, this example of 1990 Montrose is a privilege to behold. One can speculate whether larger formats are a safer bet in terms of experiencing this behemoth without any brettanomyces. Perhaps. However, if you do come across the 1990 Montrose like this, you are in the presence of a king. Tasted January 2017.

The Wine Independent (100)

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2009 Montrose prances out with showy notes of blackcurrant preserves, blackberry pie, dark chocolate, anise, and violets with touches of menthol and fallen leaves. The medium to full-bodied is jam packed with impactful black fruit preserves, supported by firm, ripe, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing with epic length and wonderfully fragrant.

The Wine Independent (100)

The 2010 Montrose is composed of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple in color, it needs a lot of swirling and coaxing to bring out notes of baked plums, boysenberry preserves, warm cassis, and licorice, followed by hints of mocha, tapenade, crushed rocks, and cast-iron pan. The full-bodied palate has a formidable structure of very firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness supporting the voluptuous black fruit and mineral layers, finishing long, long, long.

The Wine Independent (100)

A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 7% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Montrose is deep garnet-purple in color. It comes tearing out of the glass with rambunctious scents of creme de cassis, juicy blackberries, and blueberry pie, leading to hints of menthol, dark chocolate, licorice, and tree bark with a touch of crushed rocks. The medium-bodied palate is chock full of bright black fruits with loads of spicy sparks and a firm, wonderfully velvety texture, finishing long and energetic.

The Wine Independent (100)

The 2019 Montrose is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple colored, it needs a lot of swirling to unlock a vibrant core of ripe, juicy blackcurrants, freshly picked blueberries, and redcurrants with touches of garrigue, iris, tilled earth, and Sichuan pepper, plus a waft of wood smoke. Medium to full-boded, the palate is taut and muscular, framed by firm, grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing very long and achingly perfumed. This is a real head-turner!

Wine Advocate (100)

Surpassing the 2019 and rivaling the 2016 as this estate's finest vintage of the last few decades, the 2020 Montrose is a monument in the making. Wafting from the glass with aromas of violets, dark berries, licorice, loamy soil, black truffle and subtle spices, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a seamless, elegantly muscular profile, terrific purity and energy, beautifully powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. It checks in at 13.7% alcohol, the same as the superb 2009, but it is even deeper, more vibrant and more complex than the 2009. This will be worth a special effort to seek out and only confirms Montrose's status as one of the contemporary M�doc's leading estates and a de facto first growth.

Wine Advocate (100)

1945 was the first of the artist’s label series (except for the one-off in 1924), commissioned by Baron Philippe de Rothschild and created by Philippe Jullian, featuring the distinctive “V” on the label to represent the World War II victory of the allies. This was a very small vintage, largely due to a devastating spring frost, which clearly did not affect quality, but meant yields were down by around 50% this year. This, combined with the fact that the vineyard was not quite the size it is today, meant that this would have been made almost exclusively from fruit from the plateau. It also meant only around 6,500 cases were made. Interestingly, Philippe Dhalluin shared with me that he recently learned this wine was made using a curious “sandwich” vinification method, whereby it was fermented using varying layers of stems and skins. Therefore, in this vintage there is an aromatic and textural component coming from the stems, which, of course, is absent in modern Mouton. However, this recently gleaned knowledge has inspired some vinification experiments with stems, Dhalluin told me with a gleam in his eyes.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

As this is now in its prime time drinking window, well-stored examples of this nectar should begin to escalate in price. And for good reason. Texturally, this opulent, showy, supple, lush wine, which manages to harness an incredible depth of fruit feels just great as it rests on your palate. The finish crosses the sixty-second mark with ease. I suspect well-stored bottles will be even better with another 5 years or so and should remain at their extraordinary level for at least another 2 - 3 decades after that.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

As this is now in its prime time drinking window, well-stored examples of this nectar should begin to escalate in price. And for good reason. Texturally, this opulent, showy, supple, lush wine, which manages to harness an incredible depth of fruit feels just great as it rests on your palate. The finish crosses the sixty-second mark with ease. I suspect well-stored bottles will be even better with another 5 years or so and should remain at their extraordinary level for at least another 2 - 3 decades after that.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

A wine that's been closed every time I've been lucky enough to taste it previously, the 1986 Château Mouton Rothschild appears to have finally come around, and it’s pure Bordeaux gold today. Still deeply hued and vibrant, with no bricking, it has a powerful, full-bodied style carrying lots of pure black currants, scorched earth, graphite, tobacco leaf, and roasted coffee-like aromatics. Full-bodied and still incredibly concentrated on the palate, it has a massive mid-palate, polished yet still present tannins, and an incredible finish. A legendary bottle of wine, it lived up to every expectation on this occasion. It probably has another 50 years of life, but it's in a great spot today.

Wine Spectator (100)

Complex aromas of blackberries, citrus and tobacco. Currants. Subtle nose yet complex. You have to look under the surface. Full-bodied, with a big core of ripe fruit and superripe tannins. Thick and powerful. Chewy. Tannins come out of hiding and lash out on the finish. Score range: 95-100

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

This is pure pleasure, with tiny pulses of electricity, brushed leather, sulphur, loam, truffle, blackberry, black cherry, with touches of silky tannins, smoked caramel and black chocolate. A wine that makes you smile, so much depth and power, barely out of its primary phase, but we are starting now to get the whole picture of what it will become. There is a lush edge to the tannins now that was not the case even two years ago. Such a different expression from the 2009 and 2010 Mouton, with this a little more old school in its charms, and for me you can now project yourself foraward, more like the 1986, a little dry and strict at first, but finessed and gorgeous, delivering grip, punch and magic. Eric Tourbier and Philippe Dhalluin on the technical team. 63% first wine, extremely low for the time (lowest since 1975, whereas today they are regularly below 50%). If you are going to open this anytime soon, think of it as a bottle to enjoy very slowly over four or five hours seeing the nuances develop. 100% new oak.

Wine Spectator (100)

Gorgeous aromas of currant, raspberry and mineral. Full-bodied, with ultrafine tannins. Long and caressing, building on the palate. Very pretty, very elegant. Subtle and seductive. This could be better than 2005. Wait and see. Score range: 95-100

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

Incredible in every sense of the word, this has everything you could want in a Pauillac and from Mouton Rothschild. Just as good, but different in style from the opulence found in the 2009, here you find incredible levels of intensity, density, richness, vibrancy and lift. The wall of fruit is perfectly ripe, expressing its purity along with crushed rocks, flowers, spice box, lead pencil, currants, cassis, blackberries, and Cuban cigars. The racy finish is seamless and crosses the 60-second mark with ease. This is not a wine for today. This is for the future. Your children can enjoy it at maturity.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

Incredible in every sense of the word, this has everything you could want in a Pauillac and from Mouton Rothschild. Just as good, but different in style from the opulence found in the 2009, here you find incredible levels of intensity, density, richness, vibrancy and lift. The wall of fruit is perfectly ripe, expressing its purity along with crushed rocks, flowers, spice box, lead pencil, currants, cassis, blackberries, and Cuban cigars. The racy finish is seamless and crosses the 60-second mark with ease. This is not a wine for today. This is for the future. Your children can enjoy it at maturity.

The Wine Independent (100)

A blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2016 Mouton Rothschild has a pH of 3.62 and a very deep purple black color. It is very closed to begin, requiring a lot of swirling to unleash a powerful wall of crème de cassis, juicy black plums, and scents of boysenberries, followed by nuances of star anise, incense, violets, crushed rocks, and camphor, plus emerging iron ore and rose oil hints. The medium to full-bodied palate is densely packed with layer upon layer of black fruit preserves and perfumed floral and exotic spice accents, framed by beautifully ripe, plush tannins and seamless freshness, finishing with an epically long fruit and mineral firework display. Gorgeous!

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

I'm not alone in considering this one of the all-time great Moutons - it was awarded World's Greatest Wine is a competition last year that saw numerous rounds of blind tasting. It's worth your while to find out why - this is a powerhouse of beautiful fruits - layer upon concentrated layer of blackberry, cassis, liquorice, baked earth, cigar box, black truffle and the signature smoked and grilled spices of Mouton. The tannins are velvety but determined, holding on to their fruit with no intention of letting go for another few decades. 100% new oak. There is the tiniest touch of Petit Verdot in the blend but under 1% so it’s not in the official figures. 62% of production went into the grand vin. 3.78pH. 88IPT. The artist for this vintage is Xu Bing.

The Wine Independent (100)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-purple colored, it races out of the glass with gregarious scents of creme de cassis, redcurrant jelly, black raspberries, and chocolate-covered cherries, giving way to a serious undercurrent of licorice, forest floor, candied violets, and cardamom with a touch of cast-iron pan. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is jam-packed with expressive red, black, and blue fruit layers, framed by fine-grained tannins and bold freshness, finishing with floral, exotic spices and a mineral firework display.

James Suckling (100)

The purity of blackcurrants, blueberries, creme de cassis, and flowers. Hints of subtle spearmint. Iron. Blood orange. Medium-bodied with a compacted palate, like a cylinder of perfectly ripe fruit and fine tannins. A million layers of tight-grained tannins. It goes on and on. Such freshness and weightlessness to it. Ethereal. New classicism. Modern take on the 1986. 12.79% alcohol. 84% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Drink after 2030 but hard to not drink now.

James Suckling (100)

I am breathless with the dark-berry, lavender and burnt-orange aromas. Some salt. Just so formidable and deep. Stunningly sexy on the palate with a density and power, yet it leaves things so clean and bright. You want to drink it and enjoy it now, but it has the structure to last forever. Drink in 2022.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

Just hover your nose over the glass to get excited about this wine. Inky purple in colour, cigar box, tobacco bud, pencil lead, tight cassis and bilberry fruit. Where the 2015 is generous, the 2016 is tighter, less expressive at the five year mark, but with layers and potential to fire up an entire room. Has the structure and the chiselled fruit that signposts great Bordeaux in an exceptional vintage, with the nuanced whisper of violet and peony that takes you to the Margaux appellation. Powerful and muscular, still austere but the morieish juice on the finish tells you how much this has to give over the next few decades. Harvest October 3 to 18. Gets better every time you go back to it. 60% new oak.

Wine Advocate (100)

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Pape Clement comes wafting sensuously from the glass with fragrant notions of dried roses, Chinese five spice and sandalwood over a core of kirsch, warm cassis and plum preserves plus a touch of cedar chest. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is finely crafted with a firm line of ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness supporting the perfumed fruit through the incredibly long finish.

James Suckling (100)

A very complex nose of lavender, currants, spices, and hot stones. Full and dense on the palate, with a very tight structure. The tannins have a perfect polish to their density, and the finish is very intense, with wonderful fruit and truffle character. This turns almost decadent, with tremendous energy and a constantly changing profile. This is a very challenging wine to get to know, please leave this for at least ten years. Pull the cork in 2015.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Needing plenty of air to show at its best, the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard is a sensational, gorgeous Napa Valley Cabernet that delivers the goods like only this region can. Pure Cabernet magic on the nose, with deep blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, lead pencil, and a kiss of spring flowers as well as a beautiful Pessac-Leognan-like scorched earth character, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, silky tannins, no hard edges, and a great, great finish. It's one of those wines that builds incrementally on the palate and it's only after the second or third sip that you realize how special this wine is. It also offers that rare mix of power and elegance that's the hallmark of all great wines. It needs a couple hours in the decanter if drinking any time soon. It will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age and cruise for 20-30 years in cold cellars. Hats off to Paul Hobbs for an incredible Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Advocate (100)

Of the three benchmark la Chapelles ('90, '78 and '61), the 1961 Hermitage la Chapelle is the largest, most massive and over-the-top of the trio. Offering a stunning - literally off the charts - bouquet of truffles, soy sauce, smoked meats, coffee bean and wood smoke, it is the absolute essence of this cuvee and of the magical, south-facing Hermitage Hill from where it comes. Thick, unctuous and massive on the palate, I can only imagine what this beast of a wine must have tasted like in its youth. I also wish every winemaker/person who comments about a wine being too big, too rich, or too over-the-top could have a glass of this elixir. It's certainly fully mature, yet it still amazingly has sweet tannin and no shortage of fruit or texture. Given its mid-palate density, it will most likely be a 100-year wine. Still, why wait?

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Just a powerhouse of a wine that does everything right, the 2000 Château Pavie is drinking incredibly well today, offering huge blackcurrant and chocolatey darker berry fruits as well as loads of truffly earth, tobacco, and spice. Full-bodied, deep, and concentrated on the palate, it stays flawlessly balanced, and while I suspect the acidity is quite low, it has an incredible sense of freshness and a weightless texture. Fully mature, yet in the early part of its drink window, it has another two decades or prime drinking ahead of it.

Wine Advocate (100)

Gérard Perse believes this is the greatest Pavie he’s made to date, although certainly I would argue that list includes the 2000, as well as the 2009 and 2010, among his superstars. This wine, which I had both in the 2005 horizontal report in the Wine Advocate, and at a mini-vertical with Perse at the restaurant Maison Boulud in Montreal, looks to be a 75- to 100-year wine. Dense, opaque purple to the rim, with a gorgeously promising nose of blackberries, cassis, graphite and cedar wood just beginning to emerge, it tastes more like a three-year-old than wine that is already a decade old. This beauty is intense and full-bodied, with magnificent concentration, a majestic mouthfeel and a total seamless integration of tannin, wood, alcohol, etc. Beautifully rich, full and multidimensional, this is a tour de force in winemaking and certainly one of the top dozen or so 2005 Bordeaux. Forget it for another 3-5 years and drink it over the following 50-100 years!

Wine Advocate (100)

Deep garnet in color, the 2009 Pavie drifts effortlessly and profoundly from the glass with baked plums, spice cake, sandalwood, Black Forest cake and blueberry pie scents followed up with a fragrant undercurrent of potpourri, unsmoked cigars and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, rich and plush, this is pure seduction in the mouth, offering a taut yet velvety texture and oodles of freshness to frame the opulent fruit, finishing very long and mineral laced.

Wine Advocate (100)

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Pavie delivers tantalizing suggestions of candied violets, star anise and tapenade over a core of prunes, blueberry compote, Morello cherries and fruitcake with touches of underbrush and bouquet garni. Full-bodied, rich and exotically opulent, the palate has a rock-solid texture of velvety tannins and bold freshness supporting the generous palate of black and blue berry preserves, finishing long and fragrant.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Pure perfection in a glass and unquestionably one of the great vintages for this cuvée, the 2015 Pavie is a blend of 60% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon that was brought up in 80% new French oak. Sharing some similarities with the 2009, this tour de force sports a saturated purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of crème de cassis, crushed rocks, white truffle, and licorice. Its oak is perfectly integrated and balanced by this wine’s massive fruit and structure. Full-bodied, deep, and superbly concentrated, with building tannins, it’s a massive wine by any measure, but what sets it apart is that it still glides across the palate and retains an incredible sense of purity, balance, and elegance. It’s drinking well today due to the vintage’s opulence, yet won’t hit prime time for another 5-10 years and I suspect will keep for upward of 50 years.