The World of Fine Wine (97)

Even darker in colour than No. 3, and the aroma here is a little more closed at even this early stage, not quite as alluring. Warm earth, chocolate, black fruits, a hint of woodsmoke. This is more burly, more concentrated. Excellent complexity. The tannins here are not as cashmere-like - more chalky and firmer, more mouth-coating; perhaps more what one expects from Grenache. Fuller in flavor, great structure, bright acidity, and a very long finish. Another superb wine and again, a great future. Indeed, this would seem to have an even longer-focus than No. 3.

From a deeply underrated distillery, this Allt-a-Bhainne bottled by the Stewart Whisky Company under their Stiùbhart Single Cask label is a glorious example of what happens when a cask is simply allowed to mature as it should. A natural cask strength of just 44.9% after 24 years makes it clear that this was maturing at an accelerated rate, losing a lot of alcohol and water but the phenolic oils that remain have led to an extremely concentrated whisky; a masterclass in bourbon-wood maturation.

Appearance: Showing a brilliant old-brass colour courtesy of the bourbon wood and that unique concentration through the ageing process.

Nose: this whisky jumps out of the glass with notes almost reminiscent of a great White Burgundy. Crushed river stones and struck flint alongside golden delicious apple and herbes de provence come across on the nose.

Palate: The palate is gentle as one would expect from the lower ABV but it is oily and viscous with a sensation of scented candle followed by sea salt, delicate earthy peat and a return of that golden delicious apple note.

Finish: Extremely long and gentle with the initial notes of crushed stones mingling with sea salt and stewed orchard fruit.

Decanter (95)

Gorgeous rich dark purple in the glass. Quite jammy and concentrated on the nose, heady and perfumed with a lovely delicate florality to it too. Great freshness on the palate, juicy but a dark blackcurrant and cherry fruit juice. Beautifully balanced with integrated tannins and oak. Well defined fruit, generous and quite abundant against softly grippy, velvety tannins that just give support to the overall frame. It's serious but with a lightness of touch and playfulness - energetic and lively but still with depth. A great Alter Ego and confident winemaking on show.

James Suckling (94-95)

Savory black and salted-olive character with oyster shells and black licorice. Fine, almost powdery yet firm tannins. Medium body. Excellent density and structure for the vintage. Second wine of Palmer. 60% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 8% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.

Wine Advocate (95)

The Altesino 2019 Brunello di Montalcino boasts a rich and savory side that this wine wears very well. There is a beautiful level of dark fruit that folds into the wine's velvety texture. Blackberry and plum envelop the palate, adding elegant full-bodied volume and fine tannins along the way. The wine is aged in traditional Slavonian casks, and production reaches 110,000 bottles annually (which is very ambitious considering this level of quality).

James Suckling (97)

This has a complex nose of cranberries, dried pineapple, soy, bark, cardamom, mocha, iodine and wet leather. Full-bodied, with firm and very fine tannins. It really builds in intensity, expanding into a broad array of fresh and dried fruit and espresso bean, before converging again on a long and driven finish. Fantastic already. Try now or in a couple of years.

Wine Advocate (97)

The site-specific 2018 Malbec Appellation Gualtallary comes from specific soils, two plots that they believe transmit the maximum expression of limestone to Malbec, giving a structured wine with fine-grained tannins but a little wild. The vines are on stony and gravelly soils with a high percentage of limestone and sand with around 3% clay at 1,300 meters in altitude. The grapes fermented in small concrete vats with indigenous yeasts at some 25 degrees Celsius for 15 days. It matured in untoasted 3,500-liter French oak foudres for 18 months and no less than 12 months in bottle. This comes from sandy soils and very low yields that give it chalkier tannins and a savage way. This has a slightly rustic touch, vertical and with some lightness. There's always a fresh touch of aromatic herbs (thyme and rockrose), with a textured palate and very tasty and clean flavors in the finish. 20,600 bottles were filled in September 2019.

Decanter (97)

Quiñón de Valmira is not just a wine. As Palacios’ top Rioja it leads the transformation of Rioja Baja, now known as Rioja Oriental; puts the overlooked Garnacha back centre stage; and highlights the Sierra de Yerga as a fine vineyard origin. The palate is very appealing: succulent with a resounding red fruit and dark cherry ripeness, plus a lift of orange zest. Vivid, penetrating and long. Alvaro Palacios says Valmira is 'all about the aftertaste and the length'. Viñedo singular. 5,552 bottles produced.

James Suckling (97)

This is a very tight and fine-grained red with a compressed mouthfeel. The fruit comes through to a class and elegance. Such length. Ethereal structure. Unique. Drink or hold.

Wine Advocate (96+)

The origin of everything here and the first single-vineyard red, the 2018 Finca Dofí excels in 2018. Those 10 hectares planted 20 years ago in the village of Gratallops are mostly Garnacha, but the wine also has some 8% Cariñena and 2% white grapes. They all fermented after being destemmed and lightly crushed in oak vats with indigenous yeasts. The wine matured in large oak barrels (bocoyes and foudres) for 16 months. This is the refined version of the Gratallops (the vineyard is in the village!) but with an extra degree of depth and complexity, especially nuance and elegance, showcasing the captivating finesse and harmony of the vintage, which is a little in the style of the 2016 with more energy. I see that these 2018s are quite transparent and show the style of the zone, the iron soils, the dusty roads and the warmth of the soils; it's round and lush, spherical but with a spike of freshness. The élevage has been polished so as to render it almost invisible. This is drinkable now, and I think it's also going to age nicely in bottle and drink nicely throughout its life. 29,540 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2020.

Wine Advocate (96-98)

The more backward of the 2021s was the 2021 Finca Dofí, which was very primary and smelled almost like the fermentation vessels, and it took time in the glass to open up. The blend is higher in Garnacha, and they couldn't use the Picapoll as it didn't work well that cool year, so it's 90% Garnacha, 9% Cariñena and 1% white grapes. It achieved 14.5% alcohol but kept better freshness than in 2020, a constant in the 2021 wines. Very promising. They expect 24,000 bottles. It should be bottled around April 2023.

Wine Advocate (97-100)

As I saw in some of the other wines, there is a lot more Cariñena in the still unbottled 2016 L'Ermita than in the 2015. The varietal breakdown was approximately 85% Garnacha, 14% Cariñena and 1% white grapes—Garnacha Blanca, Macabeo and PX. The grapes are manually sorted and destemmed by the team that picks them and are put to ferment in an oak vat with the natural yeasts from the grapes. Malolactic was in barrique, which is where the wine was maturing when I tasted it. It has electric acidity that makes it vibrant, even if the nose might be a bit shy. I don't remember a vintage of L'Ermita with this concentration and acidity. We have to see how the élevage rounds it out, but this could be a very important vintage for L'Ermita. The expectation is to bottle some 2,000 bottles of this in May/June 2018.

Wine Advocate (99)

The flagship 2018 L'Ermita is already classified as Gran Vinya Classificada, the new category of grand cru vineyards from the Priorat appellation of origin. Like the 2017, the blend here is mostly Garnacha with about 20% Cariñena (the highest for this wine) and 2% of white grapes. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats with a maceration of 56 days and matured in oak barrels of different sizes for 14 months. The grapes were picked quite late but on the same date as the previous year, the 17th of October, because the vineyard is so regular. The wine is aromatic, intense and elegant, with a lifted nose and a high-pitched note of violet pastille, more refined than the Aubaguetes and Baixada. It is classical and proportioned, with contained and complex aromas and flavors and lots of energy, light in its feel but with inner power and strength. As with most great wines, it should develop nicely and for a long time in bottle but will drink well throughout its life. Grand vin, yes. 2,440 bottles were filled in April 2020.

Wine Advocate (98)

The amazing, pedal to the metal/full throttle/balls to the wall, sweet 1910 Pedro Ximenez Solera is a dark amber-colored, full-bodied, unctuously-textured beauty that should be sipped and savored slowly and carefully at the end of a meal with a plate of cashews. It is remarkable stuff. The price is not high for what it represents.

Wine Advocate (98)

The NV Pedro Ximenez Solera 1927 is non-vintage, but does have some 1927 material in it. This is totally dark brown/amber with notes of figs, toffee, caramel syrup, molasses and coffee. It is dense, super sweet, intense, rich and an amazingly, unctuously textured, thick beverage to consume slowly and introspectively after a meal. Drink now through 2050, or even longer.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another perfect wine from Jim Binns is the 2019 No 8, a blend of 88% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre, and 3% Viognier. This full-bodied powerhouse of a wine has that rare mix of richness and elegance as well as a stunning array of red, blue, and black fruits along with notes of ground pepper, violets, and spring flowers. The balance is as good as it gets, it has ultra-fine tannins, and again, a mix of power and finesse that's something to behold. It's unquestionably approachable today yet should benefit from a few years of bottle age and keep for 15+.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

I loved the 2020 No 9 from barrel and this beauty does not disappoint from bottle. Based on 89% Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre, and the rest Viognier that was only 50% destemmed, it spent 22 months in 65% new French oak. A wine that demands lots of air to show at its best, it reveals a deep plum/purple hue as well as a brilliant bouquet of red, blue, and black fruits, ground pepper, iodine, crushed violets, and wild sagebrush. With incredible purity and precision aromatically, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered, concentrated mouthfeel, ripe tannins, and a great finish. It's a big, rich wine from Binns, but if anything, it shows another level of finesse and stays light on its feet and graceful. This world-class Syrah will benefit from 3-5 years of bottle age and evolve nicely over the following two decades. It's clearly one of the wines of the vintage in Santa Barbara, if not one of the greatest 2020s in the state.

Jancis Robinson (16.5)

0.5 ha (1.2 acres) of 45-year-old vines; principally shallow 30 cm topsoil over hard Comblanchien limestone rock. 25% new oak. Tank sample. Clear, bright mid-ruby. Great perfume again. Bright red fruits, raspberry and perfumed violets. Lovely elegance, lightness and freshness. Deft.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)

A fuller purple, showing an exuberant cherry raspberry fruit, with energy behind, and a little thread of acidity. From barrel, this stands head and shoulders above its neighbours. A touch of strawberry too in the long, satisfying finish. Drink from 2026-2032.

Jancis Robinson (16.5+)

Three parcels making 0.5 ha (1.2 acres); 35-year-old vines. Two parcels abutting the Bonnes Mares Grand Cru. 25% new oak. Tank sample. Pale ruby. Elegant light red cherries, strawberry and redcurrants with ground-pepper spice. Elegant, floral lightness, with powdery, feather-like tannins. Refined and aloof.

Antica Terra Aurata Chardonnay 2021 is the epitome of finesse and precision in craftsmanship, a testament to the boundless prowess yielded by Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Carefully produced by respected winemaker Maggie Harrison, a descendent of the distinguished Burgundy wine tradition, every essence of this Chardonnay exudes harmony and elegance. The grapes used are meticulously handpicked from nutrient-dense, marine sedimentary soils, then fermented using wild yeasts in the cellar.

A masterful display of winemaking technique, the Antica Terra Aurata Chardonnay 2021 offers a tantalising nose of crisp apples, white flowers, and a hint of toasted hazelnut. This reflects the vibrancy and intricate layering of flavours on the palate, well-supported by acidity, presenting an impressive balance between richness and minerality. Further ageing potential leaves enthusiasts eager for the continued evolution of this wine’s depth and complexity. A perfect accompaniment to a refined dining experience, the Antica Terra Aurata Chardonnay 2021 is a beacon of remarkable Willamette Valley viticulture.

Experience the exquisite elegance of Antica Terra Pinot Noir Botanica 2021, a lauded embodiment of viticulture artistry. Crafted in Oregon's esteemed Willamette Valley, this harmonious blend exhibits unparalleled sophistication and depth. Acclaimed winemaker Maggie Harrison expertly guides the ingenious production, with each grape meticulously handpicked to ensure only superior quality is included. The cool ripening season, influenced by the Pacific Ocean, contributes to the unique character of this prestigious wine.

Antica Terra employs meticulous, minimal intervention methods that allow for an eloquent expression of terroir. The Antica Terra Pinot Noir Botanica 2021 displays a captivating palate of layered complexity, where red fruit undertones are beautifully balanced by a cool minerality. The nose reveals floral hints of rose petals woven with the aromatic richness of wild strawberries. This wine promises remarkable ageing potential, making it a coveted gem for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Get captivated by the enchanting charm of Antica Terra Pinot Noir Botanica 2021.

Indulge in the prestigious Antica Terra Pinot Noir Ceras 2021, a masterful fruit of Oregon's mist-kissed landscapes. Epitomising class and finesse, this wine stands as an icon of the Antica Terra estate, celebrated for producing world-beating Pinot Noirs. Traversing the diverse terroirs of Eola-Amity Hills, at an elevation of 350 to 500 feet, the vineyard's 11 acres unfurl in an enchanting labyrinth of vines.

Winemaker Maggie Harrison, formerly of Sine Qua Non, meticulously champions an artisanal approach. This particular bottling wine is crafted from meticulously hand-picked fruit. The 2021 Ceras unfurls layers of dark cherries and crispy, refined tannins, underpinning a symphony of silken textures. The finesse of the palate is a testament to its biodynamic farming and native yeast fermentation. With age, it promises to evolve even more complexity.

The Antica Terra Pinot Noir Ceras 2021 embodies the sublime union of earth's bounty and human touch, a must-have addition to every fine wine admirer's collection.

James Suckling (98-99)

Full-bodied, dense and layered with fantastic aromas and flavors. Long, long finish. Serious contender here for wine of the vintage. One of the best ever from here? A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah.

Wine Advocate (96)

Renzo Cotarella, managing director of Marchesi Antinori tells me that the 2018 vintage showed very different results in the inland and hilly Chianti Classico appellation compared to the flat, sea-facing Bolgheri appellation. This season saw some rain right before harvest. That extra humidity rolled right off the Chianti Classico hills and disappeared without effect, but it stuck around longer in the thicker, flatter soils of Guado al Tasso. For this reason, one of the estate's top wines, the Cabernet Franc-based Matarocchio, was not produced in 2018 for fear that the fruit would not offer the concentration required of a wine of that important stature. The best of that fruit was used in this wine instead. For that reason, the 2018 Bolgheri Superiore Guado al Tasso sees a little more Cabernet Franc (clocking in at about 22% of the blend) and less Merlot, with the rest being Cabernet Sauvignon, of course, (at about 60%). To be honest, the percentage of Cabernet Franc has been deliberately creeping up over the years to render a more focused and sharper bouquet. Aromas of dark fruit and freshly milled white pepper replace the more banal cherry-based flavors delivered by the Merlot, and the wine appears more lifted and precise as a result. The Cabernet Sauvignon delivers spice and licorice, and these pretty aromas are likewise given more breathing room, thanks to the counterparts found in the Cabernet Franc. Linearity, sharpness, pencil shavings and dark currant or blackberry—this is the direction Guado al Tasso is taking, and this 2018 vintage opens the door to a new chapter for the wine. Some 115,000 bottles were made.

Vinous (94)

Vivid red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe, spice-accented red berries and cherry liqueur, smoky minerals and a hint of incense. Energetic, mineral-laced blueberry and bitter cherry flavors show very good depth and take on a hint of candied licorice with air. Smooth, harmonious tannins add framework to the impressively long, floral-tinged finish, which leaves behind a sweet touch of red fruit preserves.

On the nose, faint ripples of sweet wood smoke and tart crème fraîche flow gently into bold notes of savoury fennel, celeriac and roasted tea leaves. Plunge further and discover alluring aromas of charcoal and lightly burnt toast. A splash of water releases a gust of fresh sea spray, followed by eucalyptus oil and pine. Finally, this irresistible nose ends with an unmistakable top note of saddle soap and leather. An intensely salty mouthfeel shifts like the tides into soothing medicinal notes, followed by salted peanut brittle, smoked pineapple and lime juice. Waves of aniseed lap over the palate, before rich fudge, birch tar and peat smoke crash down wildly. This is a dram that coaxes you in, and all assumptions are best left behind. Simply let this alluring spirit surprise and delight. Savoury and smoky notes collide in a sharp, intense, yet satisfyingly long finish

This 1997-vintage Ardmore has been matured in a single refill hogshead for 21 years, before being bottled in February 2019 for Gordon & MacPhail’s Connoisseurs Choice series. Soft, smoky aromas of camphor mingle with brown sugar and honey-roasted peanuts, while the palate initially offers sweet apricot jam and lemon zest notes. The peat smoke returns in gentle, rolling waves, while notes of cloudy apple juice and a salty edge linger in the finish. 248 bottles produced. Cask No. 19/021.

James Suckling (94)

Very attractive floral and fresh aromas to the plums and cherries, following through to the palate. Flavorful and gorgeous, yet lively and focused. Lovely 2017. Drink now or hold.