Matthew Jukes (19+)

The latest release of R.D. – Bollinger’s iconic ‘Recently Disgorged or Récemment Dégorgé’ wine is something completely out of the ordinary. My one-word description for this sensational wine is ‘controlled’. I say this because what I adore about every single vintage of R.D. which I have tasted (and there have been many – see below) is the seeming lack of control in every sip. R.D. should be and usually is an absurdly decadent and unpredictable wine, firing off ostentatious flavour and extraordinary detail in every direction. This is why I love it so much and also why I only open it on very special occasions! What is remarkable about this particular vintage is its restraint and levity coupled with the extraordinary length of finish. After 14 years on lees, this wine is as power-packed and energised as it could possibly be and with the extra edge and vivacity coming from a fulsome percentage of Verzenay Pinot fruit (29%) added to the usual heartbeat coming from the Aÿ Pinot core (26%) this is a dynamic red fruit-dominant cocktail. The overall blend is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay coming from 14 Crus with 91% Grands Crus in this vintage. The dosage is a keen 3 grams per litre and all disgorgement is done by hand, as usual. But in 2007 the result is atypical, enchanting, surprisingly refreshing and amazingly delicious. I opened this bottle at 11.00 am and did not stopper it for a full 12 hours. I even sneaked half a glass with a chicken curry at supper time and it worked like a dream. This is not a massive firework of a wine that explodes gloriously and then is gone. Instead, it is a blazing torch of flavour with phenomenal persistence and balance and this makes it unmissable in every serious Champagne lover’s cellar.

Wine Advocate (100)

Disgorged in September 2020 with four grams per liter dosage, Bollinger's 2008 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises is one of the monumental wines of this great vintage. Soaring from the glass with a generous, honeyed bouquet of pear, orange rind, dried fruits, mocha and toasted bread, it's full-bodied, textural and enveloping, with huge concentration, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. Vinous, rich and sumptuous, it concludes with an immensely long, resonant finish. Bollinger waited until the grapes of these ungrafted vines attained 11% potential alcohol before harvesting, and they have produced the most powerful wine of the vintage—as well as one of the most profound.

Vinous (96+)

Bollinger’s 2009 Vieilles Vignes Françaises is tightly wound and reserved, which is quite surprising given the warm, dry weather of the vintage. That won’t be a problem in time, of course, but readers should plan on being patient. With a few hours of air, apricot, plum, spice, dried cherry and candied orange peel start to appear, but the 2009 remains rather taut. In some years, VVF can be quite opulent, 2002 and 2010 come to mind. The 2009, on the other hand is much more vibrant. I wouldn’t plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. VVF remains one of the most compelling wines – still or sparkling – in the world. It emerges from ungrafted Pinot Noir vines in Aÿ’s Chaudes Terres and Clos St. Jacques lieu-dits and is vinified and aged in barrel. Dosage is 4 grams per liter.

Wine Spectator (93)

Tight, firm and focused, with a trim, concentrated, structured mix of blackberry, wild berry, currant, mineral, cedar and sage. Full-bodied, then clamps down on the finish, where this shows its cedary cigar box edge. To be released spring 2011. Best from 2012 through 2022. 1,200 cases made. -JL

Vinous (93)

Bright violet. Expressive aromas of cherry cola, red berries, pungent herbs and lavender, plus a hint of smoked meat in the background. Shows strong, energetic lift to the bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors, which turn sweeter through the back half. Closes with strong tenacity and interwoven tannins that lend discreet, firming grip.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Almost all Grenache (there are splashes of Cinsault and Clairette), the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape A La Gloire De Mon Grand-Père was 50% destemmed and brought up in a mix of foudres and demi-muids. It has a riper, sexy bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, toasted spices, dried flowers, and sweet Provençal garrigue to go with a full-bodied, beautifully textured, seamless style on the palate. It still has a classic feel, yet there’s certainly more fruit and opulence here compared to the more concentrated, masculine style of the Chante Le Merle cuvée. This beauty is going to drink nicely right out of the gate and cruise for 15-20 years as well.

Jeb Dunnuck (94-96)

Moving to the old vine cuvée, which is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Mourvèdre, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes reveals a deeper ruby/purple color as well as a richer, slightly more powerful bouquet of blackcurrants, jammy black cherries, roasted garrigue, black licorice, and assorted background notes of spicy meatiness. It’s full-bodied and has a beautiful mid-palate, building tannins, and a great finish. This is another classic yet ripe, pure, and beautifully balanced wine from this estate that will benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape La Folie might not match the magical 2016, but it’s no less a brilliant wine with a subtle modern style in its black raspberry, kirsch liqueur, cassis, peppery garrigue, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Always the most modern style cuvée in the lineup (it sees a small amount of new oak), it nevertheless never loses its Southern Rhône soul and is full-bodied, flawlessly balanced, with ripe, seamless tannins and a great finish. This wine is roughly 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that was all destemmed. It should drink well with 2-3 years of bottle age and keep nicely for 15 years or more in cold cellars.

Vinous (90-92)

The 2021 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru comes from vines on a flat, dense clay soil, that are among the last to be picked. The wine has plenty of dark berry, cold black tea and light sea spray scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, plush tannins that lend this rondeur, harmonious with a sweet, almost candied finish. This will be more approachable than the Les Teurons, though it does not possess the same complexity.

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)

Medium deep purple. A little oak almost masking the slight reduction. Clears up and integrates, bringing a darker raspberry fruit. A certain sucrosity on the palate followed by the typical firm tannins which make this wine a vin de garde in most vintages. This is really quite backward and should keep well. Drink from 2027-2033

Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-97)

A low key lemon and lime colour. Clean fresh and classic on the nose. A very typical fresh stony palate, lightly washed in citrus, with enough flesh to provide the body necessary for ageing, and a fine, long, persistently mineral finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022

Decanter (97)

Bouchard’s holding here is superb: 0.90ha on the edge of the Puligny side at midslope between Ramonet and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In 2019, Bouchard emphasised the richness by picking this parcel last. Ripe apples, white flowers and even a touch of honey make their appearance on the nose, while the texture on the palate is unctuous and deep without being heavy. There is still enough freshness to keep this lively through the intensely long finish.

Vinous (91-93)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Cailles 1er Cru has a succinct nose, the 50% whole bunches are neatly embroidered into the red berry fruit, with touches of iodine developing over time. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, very harmonious, velvety smooth with deftly integrated oak towards the surprisingly concentrated, blueberry-tinged finish. One of the pleasant surprises from Bouchard Père this vintage.

Vinous (92)

The 2019 Barolo is a gorgeous entry-level offering from Brezza. In fact, it's one of the best editions of this wine I can remember tasting. Bright, translucent and full of character, the straight Barolo is all charm. Crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, sage, mint and sweet spice all lend notable complexity throughout. Vineyard sites are San Lorenzo, Fossati, Ravera (Novello) and Bricco San Pietro. Fruit is harvested and vinified separately, then the lots are blended before malolactic fermentation.

Vinous (95)

The 2019 Barolo Cannubi is one of the best wines I have tasted from Brezza in a very long time. Sweet, perfumed and silky, the 2019 bristles with Cannubi character. Crushed red berry fruit, cedar, mint, rose petal and orange zest are some of the notes that grace this exquisite but potent Barolo. Give the tannins a few years to soften.

Vinous (94)

The 2019 Barolo Castellero is a deep, beguiling wine. Deeply pitched spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs meld into a core of dark-toned fruit. Virile and imposing, with notable inner sweetness, the Castellero is stunning. There's a bit of new oak influence, but it is not dominant. This is another superb Barolo from Brezza.

Decanter (97)

Brezza is dedicated to organic viticulture, and works only with indigenous yeast, big oak vessels and long macerations in the cellar. His 2019 Sarmassa is one of the most elegant Barolos of the vintage, if not the most. Bright ruby in the glass and vibrant on the nose, the tannins are impeccable. Plenty of Parma violet notes are to the fore, soaked with rhubarb root, liquorice stick and a whiff of yellow fruits. The attack is poised, soft and silky, with long, lifted acidity. There is a perfect extraction here – the tannins are very well judged and ripe.

Vinous (90)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Ciabot del Fi emerges from a vineyard in Serralunga. Deep and fleshy in the glass, the 2019 is packed with dark fruit, leather, spice, dried herbs, menthol and licorice. The 2019 was aged in cask, which helps round some of the edges while preserving plenty of intensity.

Vinous (88)

The 2019 Barbera d'Alba Sorì del Drago is a powerful, brooding wine laced with dark black fruit, licorice, gravel, smoke and dried herbs. This heady, explosive Barbera packs a serious punch. Vineyard sites are Brea, Gianetto and Garblèt Sue'.

Vinous (89)

The 2017 Barolo is a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next decade or so. In 2017, Brovia's straight Barolo is quite floral and lifted in feel. Crushed flowers, mint, spice, blood orange and sweet berry fruit are laced throughout. As a reminder, the Brovia Barolo is a blend of all four sites the family bottles as vineyard designates, with an emphasis on the Brea cru. This mid-weight Barolo is all charm.

Formerly known as Valmaggione, this is a superb Nebbiolo d'Alba and, much like the Barolo, punches well above its weight in terms of expectations given its appellation. With the benefit of Brovia's excellent vineyard management and attention to detail, their Nebbiolo d'Alba has a delicately balanced floral and tart cherry aromatic profile as well as some lively acidity and dusty tannins which will allow it to age as long as many a great Barolo.

A youthful, vibrant whisky matured in refill Bourbon hogsheads, this comes from the legendary run of spirit that made the impossible-to-find Port Charlotte PC1, which is presently unavailable anywhere in the world. The nose is loaded with waves of gentle but generous smoke, coastal sea breeze, boat oil and a touch of tarred ropes. Some touches of fresh, tart fruit crop up to contribute to the overall balance, making this a majestic Islay par excellence. No colour added, natural cask strength - 63.5%.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)

The 2012 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a beautiful, expressive wine that captures the natural richness and radiance so typical of the year. Tropical accents, lemon confit and white flowers all meld together. On the palate, the 2012 is quite resonant, and yet it remains translucent and light on its feet. There is so much to admire in this racy Blanc de Blancs from Bruno Paillard. Disgorged: April, 2019.

This must be considered the absolute pinnacle of Bunnahabhain's achievements in recent years. A composition of several exceptionally aged casks, the youngest of which is 40 years old, rigorously selected based on their expression of Bunnahabhain's iconic rich, maritime style, this is Islay as you've never seen it before. A magical dram, a finessed yet hedonistic display of dried sultana, raisin and toffee apple with cinnamon spice, salted dark chocolate and burned orange peel, this wraps up with an unmistakably coastal flourish to finish dry on the palate and leave you always wanting more. Bottled at natural cask strength of 41.8% in a run of just 1,000 bottles. Released in 2018 and now exceedingly rare on the market.

Vinous (95)

Shimmering ruby-red. Intensely perfumed red fruit preserve, potpourri, exotic spice and vanilla aromas show outstanding clarity and minerally lift. Conveys an impressive blend of depth and energy on the palate, offering sweet Chambord, cherry cola and spicecake flavors and a touch of botanical herbs. The wonderfully long, focused finish features reverberating red fruit and floral notes and polished, finely interwoven tannins.

The Real Review (97)

Deepish red colour with a subtle tint of purple. The bouquet is savoury, complex and charcuterie-tinged, dried herbs too, the palate rich and generous, fruit-sweet at the core and almost plush in its texture. A succulent pinot. There are ample tannins supplying backbone and contributing to length, all in harmony with the gorgeous richness of flavour. A stunning pinot.

The Real Review (99)

Deepish crimson colour with a good tint of purple on the meniscus. The bouquet is restrained and shy, brooding and deep, all confirmed by the palate, which is also full-bodied and very deep, concentrated and densely packed, with more earth-bound than fragrant aromatics, some smoky-barrel nuances neatly combining with five-spice and dried thyme touches. A robust, powerful pinot with terrific length and potential.

The Real Review (98)

Deep red/purple, bright and youthful colour. The bouquet shows black pepper, latent dark berries, some 'forest floor' bunchy touches and a hint of freshly-turned earth—a stylish and hi-fidelity varietal nose. The palate is likewise intense and bright, with silky-textured tannins in fine balance, acidity evident and refreshing, inviting the company of appropriate food. Brilliant bouquet and flavour. A stunning wine in an elegant cool-grown style.