Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)

The NV (2017) Brut Nature Amplitude is 100% Chardonnay from old vines in Vrigny and Janvry. It is also one of the most impressive wines I have tasted from Lamblot. There's terrific energy and plenty of cut, not to mention tons of character. Readers should find a powerful, broad Champagne built on textural richness and saline-infused vibrancy. The 2017 finishes with real palate-staining intensity. The style is a bit rustic and assertive, but it all works. Disgorged: February 7, 2022.

Vinous (94)

The NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Complantée emerges from a parcel in Avize interplanted with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay. Exotic and beguiling in the glass, the Complantée is absolutely gorgeous. Kirsch, red plum, rose petal and spice give the wine striking aromatic intensity and lovely inner perfume. The red grapes seem especially expressive in this release. The Complantée is not an obvious wine, rather it is a Champagne of translucent finesse. This release is a blend of equal parts 2017 and 2016, vinified in neutral oak. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (94)

The NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Complantée emerges from a parcel in Avize interplanted with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc, Arbane, Petit Meslier and Chardonnay. Exotic and beguiling in the glass, the Complantée is absolutely gorgeous. Kirsch, red plum, rose petal and spice give the wine striking aromatic intensity and lovely inner perfume. The red grapes seem especially expressive in this release. The Complantée is not an obvious wine, rather it is a Champagne of translucent finesse. This release is a blend of equal parts 2017 and 2016, vinified in neutral oak. Dosage is 5 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2014) Blanc de Blancs Experience is another very beautiful and expressive Champagne from Agrapart. Silky and nuanced, the Experience is quite vinous, with a very subtle mousse and tons of freshness. Experience is a blend of fruit from Les Robards and Les Bionnes. Pascal Agrapart added unfermented 2015 juice to a base of 2014 wine for the secondary fermentation, an approach that yields a Champagne that is both unique and compelling. Non-dosé. Disgorged: July 2018.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2014) Blanc de Blancs Experience is another very beautiful and expressive Champagne from Agrapart. Silky and nuanced, the Experience is quite vinous, with a very subtle mousse and tons of freshness. Experience is a blend of fruit from Les Robards and Les Bionnes. Pascal Agrapart added unfermented 2015 juice to a base of 2014 wine for the secondary fermentation, an approach that yields a Champagne that is both unique and compelling. Non-dosé. Disgorged: July 2018.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2015) Brut Nature Exp. '15 is another highly intriguing release. The Exp. is a 2015 wine, all Chardonnay, from the Robards and Bionnes lieux-dits in Avize. Pascal Agrapart uses unfermented juice from the following harvest, in this case 2016 (rather than sugar), to create the secondary fermentation in bottle, also known as prise de mousse, in which still wine becomes Champagne. The Exp. '15 is done entirely without sulfur and is bottled with no dosage. It is one of the most unique and distinctive wines in Champagne. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (95)

The NV (2015) Brut Nature Exp. '15 is another highly intriguing release. The Exp. is a 2015 wine, all Chardonnay, from the Robards and Bionnes lieux-dits in Avize. Pascal Agrapart uses unfermented juice from the following harvest, in this case 2016 (rather than sugar), to create the secondary fermentation in bottle, also known as prise de mousse, in which still wine becomes Champagne. The Exp. '15 is done entirely without sulfur and is bottled with no dosage. It is one of the most unique and distinctive wines in Champagne. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Wine Advocate (94)

Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs F13 is – as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years. Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart farm 24 acres morsellated into more than 60 parcels the length of the Cote des Blancs, overwhelmingly planted with selections massales (principally of the family’s own, generations-long devising) rather than clones. Viticulture is clearly a meticulous concern, and while this estate doesn’t subscribe to any labels, it has a lot in common – including absence of herbicides or pesticides; generally minimalist cellar protocol; manual- and in some instances horse-plowing – with soil-conscious growers of officially organic or biodynamic persuasion. “It’s in warm, dry vintages with low acidity that you most see the effect of working the soil and making the roots go deep,” opines Pascal Agrapart, adding “I recently had a wonderful experience with a 1976 that was still full of vivacity.” Vinification is majority in tank for the two least expensive bottlings, but otherwise in old demi-muids in which primary fermentation is spontaneous and generally leisurely, with malo-lactic conversion initiated via a vinous starter to insure steady completion. Agrapart’s 2012 vins clairs and 2011 reserves, incidentally – wine isn’t assembled and bottled here until the end of the summer – were delightful and fascinating when tasted from barrel this June. There was noteworthy clarity, vibrancy and complexity to every wine I tasted here in June and thereafter, so it would have broken my heart not to be able to report on the non-vintage wines, but to do so, I must confess I’m walking close to the line of the conventions I established for my reports, because neither disgorgement dates nor lots are actually indicated on the label or bottle here, but rather on the top of the cork, with the months assigned consecutive capital letters, followed by the last two digits of the year in which the wine was disgorged. This means you’ll either need to buy and remove the cage from the first bottle or get some cooperation from your merchant if you want to know when the wine was disgorged (and as at other addresses, this won’t always be a reliable indicator as to the base wines in question, because Agraparts disgorge their “7 Crus” and “Terroirs” bottlings monthly).

Wine Advocate (94)

Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs F13 is – as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years. Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart farm 24 acres morsellated into more than 60 parcels the length of the Cote des Blancs, overwhelmingly planted with selections massales (principally of the family’s own, generations-long devising) rather than clones. Viticulture is clearly a meticulous concern, and while this estate doesn’t subscribe to any labels, it has a lot in common – including absence of herbicides or pesticides; generally minimalist cellar protocol; manual- and in some instances horse-plowing – with soil-conscious growers of officially organic or biodynamic persuasion. “It’s in warm, dry vintages with low acidity that you most see the effect of working the soil and making the roots go deep,” opines Pascal Agrapart, adding “I recently had a wonderful experience with a 1976 that was still full of vivacity.” Vinification is majority in tank for the two least expensive bottlings, but otherwise in old demi-muids in which primary fermentation is spontaneous and generally leisurely, with malo-lactic conversion initiated via a vinous starter to insure steady completion. Agrapart’s 2012 vins clairs and 2011 reserves, incidentally – wine isn’t assembled and bottled here until the end of the summer – were delightful and fascinating when tasted from barrel this June. There was noteworthy clarity, vibrancy and complexity to every wine I tasted here in June and thereafter, so it would have broken my heart not to be able to report on the non-vintage wines, but to do so, I must confess I’m walking close to the line of the conventions I established for my reports, because neither disgorgement dates nor lots are actually indicated on the label or bottle here, but rather on the top of the cork, with the months assigned consecutive capital letters, followed by the last two digits of the year in which the wine was disgorged. This means you’ll either need to buy and remove the cage from the first bottle or get some cooperation from your merchant if you want to know when the wine was disgorged (and as at other addresses, this won’t always be a reliable indicator as to the base wines in question, because Agraparts disgorge their “7 Crus” and “Terroirs” bottlings monthly).

Wine Advocate (94)

Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs F13 is – as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years. Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart farm 24 acres morsellated into more than 60 parcels the length of the Cote des Blancs, overwhelmingly planted with selections massales (principally of the family’s own, generations-long devising) rather than clones. Viticulture is clearly a meticulous concern, and while this estate doesn’t subscribe to any labels, it has a lot in common – including absence of herbicides or pesticides; generally minimalist cellar protocol; manual- and in some instances horse-plowing – with soil-conscious growers of officially organic or biodynamic persuasion. “It’s in warm, dry vintages with low acidity that you most see the effect of working the soil and making the roots go deep,” opines Pascal Agrapart, adding “I recently had a wonderful experience with a 1976 that was still full of vivacity.” Vinification is majority in tank for the two least expensive bottlings, but otherwise in old demi-muids in which primary fermentation is spontaneous and generally leisurely, with malo-lactic conversion initiated via a vinous starter to insure steady completion. Agrapart’s 2012 vins clairs and 2011 reserves, incidentally – wine isn’t assembled and bottled here until the end of the summer – were delightful and fascinating when tasted from barrel this June. There was noteworthy clarity, vibrancy and complexity to every wine I tasted here in June and thereafter, so it would have broken my heart not to be able to report on the non-vintage wines, but to do so, I must confess I’m walking close to the line of the conventions I established for my reports, because neither disgorgement dates nor lots are actually indicated on the label or bottle here, but rather on the top of the cork, with the months assigned consecutive capital letters, followed by the last two digits of the year in which the wine was disgorged. This means you’ll either need to buy and remove the cage from the first bottle or get some cooperation from your merchant if you want to know when the wine was disgorged (and as at other addresses, this won’t always be a reliable indicator as to the base wines in question, because Agraparts disgorge their “7 Crus” and “Terroirs” bottlings monthly).

Vinous (94)

The 2011 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs L'Avizoise Grand Cru has more than enough brawn and depth to fill out its frame. The richness of fruit of this clay-rich site, along with the flavor complexity that is gained through aging on the cork results in a rich, vinous Champagne built on layers of flavor and vertical structure. As good as the 2011 is today, I would prefer to drink it on the earlier side given the challenges that 2011 presented. This is a superb wine for the year and a real revelation. Old vines in the Les Robarts and La Voie d’Epernay lieu-dits inform the Avizoise. Disgorged: May 2017. Dosage is 5 grams per liter.

Vinous (94)

All of the natural power and breath of Avize come through in the 2013 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru L’Avizoise. Graphite, crushed rocks and dried flowers are woven throughout a core of rich, super-expressive Chardonnay fruit. The 2013 is ample, savory and intensely mineral, but it will be even better in another few years, once all the elements have time to fully meld together. The 2013 is such a gorgeous and expressive Champagne. These 50+ year-old vines in the Les Robards and La Voie d’Epernay confer real depth and pedigree. Dosage: 5 gr/L. Disgorged: May, 2019.

Vinous (95)

The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru L’Avizoise, from old vines in the Les Robards and Voie d'Epernay lieux-dits, is a wonderfully complex wine. Rich, ample and mineral but also intensely perfumed, the Avizoise has so much going on. Vinification in oak and aging on the cork seems to really bring out soft contours to match the wine's sculpted, translucent feel. This is an especially refined, aromatic expression of Avize, and also one of the most sublime, elegant wines I have tasted from Pascal Agrapart. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (93)

The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs L’Avizoise Grand Cru stands out in this range for its breadth and power. Lemon peel, savory herbs, dried flowers, grapefruit and mint lend a bit of upper register and aromatic presence. Slight vegetal notes, a characteristic of any 2015s, lurk beneath, while texturally the Avizoise is on the lighter side. For those reasons, I would not push my luck on aging. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2021.

Vinous (93)

The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs L’Avizoise Grand Cru stands out in this range for its breadth and power. Lemon peel, savory herbs, dried flowers, grapefruit and mint lend a bit of upper register and aromatic presence. Slight vegetal notes, a characteristic of any 2015s, lurk beneath, while texturally the Avizoise is on the lighter side. For those reasons, I would not push my luck on aging. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2021.

Wine Advocate (97)

The 2016 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Avizoise derives from lieux-dits Les Robarts and Les Gros Yeux in Avize, two sites that are characterized by deeper clays than those in the parcels that inform Minéral. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of apple blossom, citrus zest, confit orange, freshly baked bread and warm biscuits, it's full-bodied, satiny and layered, with terrific concentration, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. This concentrated, vinous, chiseled Champagne is a remarkable wine!

Wine Advocate (93)

Based on the 2019 vintage and disgorged in April 2022, Agrapart's NV Brut 7 Crus wafts from the glass with scents of crisp green apple, freshly baked bread, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's an ample, incisive wine, with racy acids and a saline finish. When the range begins like this, you know you're in the presence of one of Champagne's greatest producers.

Wine Advocate (93)

Based on the 2019 vintage and disgorged in April 2022, Agrapart's NV Brut 7 Crus wafts from the glass with scents of crisp green apple, freshly baked bread, white flowers and buttery pastry. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, it's an ample, incisive wine, with racy acids and a saline finish. When the range begins like this, you know you're in the presence of one of Champagne's greatest producers.

Wine Advocate (95)

Disgorged in April 2019 with three grams per liter dosage, the 2012 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut Minéral is showing brilliantly, bursting from the glass with aromas of ripe citrus fruit, warm bread, green apples and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and incisive, with a tensile, chalky core that displays considerable concentration and structuring dry extract, as well as a racy spine of acidity. This comes warmly recommended.

Vinous (94)

The 2013 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Minéral is powerful, ample and generous. All of the natural richness of 2013 comes through in this striking, layered exquisitely beautiful Champagne that melds together the essence of top sites in Avize (Les Champboutons) and Cramant (Les Bionnes). Dried citrus, lemon oil, almond and savory herbs add striking shades of nuance throughout, but what is most remarkable about the Minéral is the interplay of textural richness and energy. A Champagne of total seduction, the 2013 simply has it all. Dosage: 5 gr/L. Disgorged: May, 2019.

Vinous (94)

The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Minéral is a powerful, intense Champagne that captures all of the natural power of these old vines in Avize and Cramant. Aptly named, the Minéral is infused with tremendous mineral and soil inflections that give a real feeling of gravitas. Crushed rocks, slate, chalk and citrus accents are some of the many nuances that emerge with a bit of time in the glass. This release is fabulous. It is also a reticent wine, though, so at least a year or two in bottle will help soften. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (94)

The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Minéral is a powerful, intense Champagne that captures all of the natural power of these old vines in Avize and Cramant. Aptly named, the Minéral is infused with tremendous mineral and soil inflections that give a real feeling of gravitas. Crushed rocks, slate, chalk and citrus accents are some of the many nuances that emerge with a bit of time in the glass. This release is fabulous. It is also a reticent wine, though, so at least a year or two in bottle will help soften. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: April, 2020.

Vinous (94)

The 2015 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Minéral Grand Cru is bracing, taut and wiry. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper and lemon peel drive this blend. The Minéral is especially fine in 2015. There is a bit of youthful austerity, but nothing a few years in bottle can"t take care of. The Minéral is one of the finer 2015s I have come across so far. Dosage is 3 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2021.