Wine Advocate (96)

Following the subtle, elegant and floral profile of the vintage, the 2014 Valtuille Cepas Centenarias is always sourced from a south-facing vineyard in the Villegas zone of the village of Valtuille de Abajo, where the soils have a sandy texture and provide for fine, elegant wines. They used 100% full clusters for the fermentation in oak vats with indigenous yeasts, and then matured the wine in used 228-liter oak barrels. The oak does not have an aromatic role in any of the reds. This combines the floral with some characteristics, earthy and developing notes of cypress, smoked meat and a Rhôneish twist. It has some earthy tannins too, coupled with moderate alcohol and great freshness. This is one of the first vineyards to be harvested, as it ripens early, and has contained alcohol. This is a very regular wine, vintage after vintage. This has to be the finest vintage for this bottle. 3,500 bottles were filled in November 2016.

Wine Advocate (96+)

The 2018 Valtuille El Rapolao, like the rest of the single-vineyard wines, has not been bottled separately since 2015. This comes from the coolest paraje of Valtuille, as it gets the sun for one full hour after the rest of vineyards of the village. This was harvested early and matured exclusively in 500-liter oak barrels; it has lower alcohol and is more elegant than the 2014 and 2015. This was a little closed at first and needed some time in the glass to open up. It's a more floral and refined version of Villegas, with more layers, more depth and complexity. There's no rusticity here, which was in the character of the 2014 and 2015. Impressive! 1,700 bottles were filled in May 2020.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Another perfect wine in the lineup is the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, and white wine simply doesn’t get any better. I’ve never found another white that conveys a sense minerality and liquid rock like this cuvée, and the 2020 offers a piercing bouquet of white currants, quince, honeyed flowers, charcoal, and scorched earth, with celery seed and wild fennel notes developing with air. A huge, rich, massive wine, it has awesome purity and precision and a great finish. It’s one of my favorite white wines in the world. This demands 3-5 years of bottle age and will have 20, 30, if not 40 years of longevity, although I find estimating the evolution of Hermitage Blanc one of the most challenging and difficult parts of the job.

Wine Advocate (100)

Always the earliest-ripening portion of the Chapoutier holdings on the Hermitage hill, the 2017 Ermitage le Méal is a complete standout. Crème de framboise notes remain fresh and lively throughout, joined by hints of blueberry, baking spices and vanilla, while the tannins are silky, the mouthfeel generous and the overall impression is one of great seductiveness and elegance.

Wine Advocate (99)

From a warm site and a hot vintage, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal Blanc was harvested on the August 28, and aged in 100% new French oak. Flirting with perfection and a full-bore, exotic, almost over-the-top expression of Marsanne, it has less minerality than the 2010, yet more of everything else with boatloads of caramelized fruits, buttered citrus, white flowers, honey and crushed rocks all soaring from the glass. Rich, layered, exuberant, unctuous and exotic, with stunning freshness despite it's thickness and weight, drink this incredible white anytime over the coming 30-40 years.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage.

Wine Advocate (94)

One of the gems in the vintage is the 2013 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes, which comes from both the Bessards and Grandes Vignes lieux-dits on Hermitage Hill. Completely destemmed, then vinified in stainless steel and concrete tanks, the wine is aged 18 months in 30% new French oak; it offers terrific notes of dark fruits, graphite and ample minerality in a full-bodied, layered, ripe profile. It’s more approachable than the Les Bessards, yet will still have three decades of longevity.

Wine Advocate (96)

They hit the nail on the head with the harvest date of the 2016 Las Lamas, and the wine shows incredible precision, elegance and symmetry this year. I've often discussed with Ricardo Pérez Palacios how sensitive Mencía is with the harvest date and how the grape has a very short picking window, to the point that, in 2016, you feel one day difference. They have been fine-tuning this wine in the last few years, and the result is evident. 3,655 bottles and some larger bottles were filled in June 2018.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2014 Moncerbal, 96% Mencía and 4% white varieties, follows a very clear line that, since 2012, is producing very elegant wines, but this 2014 could be the epitome of it. It could very well be the finest vintage of Moncerbal to date. It has a captivating nose with lots of freshness, floral, complex, elegant and nuanced. The palate has electric freshness, when the Mencía is not particularly high in acidity. This was expressive from minute one and kept changing in the glass and developing nuances. Talk about complexity, and to me, aging potential. 2,675 bottle, 73 magnums, 20 double magnums and 13 Jeroboams were filled in March 2016.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2019 Moncerbal is a "vino de paraje," produced with grapes (mostly Mencía but also 4% white grapes) from different plots that totaled 1.51 hectares in the same zone of the village of Corullón. It fermented with some full clusters and indigenous yeasts in oak vats for 46 days and matured in oak barrels and foudres for 11 months. It's one of the lower-alcohol wines (together with the Corullón) at 13.5% alcohol. This is super aromatic and floral, with notes of violets and also white flowers and even a citrus touch. This is the showier wine of the 2019s—textured, long and gentle, with a great finish. It has changing aromas and flavors, mixing flowers, herbs, berries, earth and even a lactic touch sometimes. It should develop further complexity in bottle. This is a great vintage for Moncerbal, keeping the freshness and poise of the 2018 in a warmer year. They use less and less new oak barrels, contrary to what they thought they'd need with the new winery. 3,488 bottles, 101 magnums and some larger formats were produced in 2019.

Vinous (92)

Vivid ruby. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes black raspberry, candied lavender and incense, with a hint of Asian spices in the background. Lively, deep, expansive red and dark berry and floral pastille flavors are given back-end lift by a building mineral quality. The nervy, clinging finish features fine-grained tannins and repeating floral and spice notes.

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Lastly, the 2016 Ermitage Le Méal is the top wine from Ferraton, and rightly so, as it’s a magical wine in 2016. Rocking notes of black raspberries, blackberries, toasted spices, tapenade, and dry aged beef all emerge from the glass, and it hits the palate with a wealth of material yet stays balanced, layered, and seamless. It's a sensational wine that's up with the top wines of the vintage. Hats off to the team at Ferraton for this remarkable wine as well as their full lineup of wines in 2016.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Just about perfection in a glass, the 2017 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a tour de force, offering a heavenly bouquet of white currants, quince, toasted bread, spice box, and assorted flower oil-like nuances. Deep, full-bodied, and massively concentrated on the palate, it has a distinct salty minerality, a stacked mid-palate, and bright acidity, all making for a Hermitage Blanc that needs 4-5 years of bottle age, yet will keep for two decades or more.

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Just an incredible Hermitage in every sense, the 2017 Hermitage reminds me of the 2016 yet on steroids (or maybe a more finesse-driven example of the 2015?). Revealing a deep, saturated purple color as well as a stunning nose of red and black currants, kirsch, Asian spices, cured meats, ground pepper, and Acacia flowers, it shows more classic Chave minerality with time in the glass, and if this doesn't put a smile on your face, I don't know what will. These all carry to a full-bodied, powerful, yet seamless wine that has the sunny, extroverted style of the vintage yet still packs incredible mid-palate depth, ripe, polished tannins, no hard edges, and one hell of an incredible finish. It's going to be relatively accessible by this cuvée’s standards and offer considerable pleasure in its youth, yet also have 30-40 years of longevity.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2020 Paixar is the one wine from the portfolio that is completely different from the others and comes from high-altitude vineyards in the zone of Dragonte on slate soils. In 2020 and 2021 they used the whole field blend—reds and around 5% white grapes, which might have given it an extra spark of acidity. It matured in 5,000-liter oak vat and 500-liter oak barrels. It has a perfumed nose, elegant and floral, with good ripeness but without excess. It's finely textured with a chalky thread and great balance. It finishes long and dry. This is truly superb and should evolve nicely in bottle. It's now Vino de Paraje 'A Serra' in Dragonte, a parish of Corullón. 8,000 bottles were filled in November 2021.

Decanter World Wine Awards 2023 (97)

Our Best in Show journey across Northern Spain continues with a 2020 Bierzo, grown just across the provincial border from Galicia into Castilla y Léon. It’s another zone of steep slopes and old vines – the variety in this case being Mencia (known as Jaen in Portugal’s Dão region). This wine is deep black-red in colour and vivacious and urgent in aroma: wild plums mingled with the woodland scents of leaf, copse and forest floor. The palate is fruit-packed and vibrant, vigorous with an energy derived both from ripe acidity and fresh though smooth tannins; look out, too, for a stony, bitter-edged finish perhaps derived from the region’s slate soils. Wonderful drinking now in the flush of youth, but fruit of this quality will hold well for a few years yet.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

Lastly, and a legendary wine in the making, the 2015 Hermitage La Chapelle is reminiscent of the 1990 with its full-bodied, opulently, sexy, yet concentrated style. Offering sensational notes of blackcurrants, smoked herbs, beef blood, and chocolate, it’s a huge yet elegant wine that has masses of sweet tannin, incredible purity and finesse, and a killer finish. It’s the finest wine from this estate in close to 30 years. Hats off to Caroline Frey and Jacques Desvernois!

James Suckling (97-98)

Very spicy and peppery with blue-granite aromas plus hints of grilled and smoked meat. Cloves and nutmeg. Full body, round and juicy tannins and a super spicy finish that almost burns with so much character yet turns fine and focused at the end. A beauty.

Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it.

Matthew Jukes (20++)

Like La Maison Bleue, La Chapelle barely moved an inch over the five days that it sat open (and gradually oxidising) on my tasting bench. This is a monumental wine with the finest Syrah nose I have seen since the ethereal and intriguing beauty of the remarkable 2016 vintage and also the monolithic stance of the legendary 1990. However, this is not to say that this vintage can be directly compared to either year. There is a latent power about this wine that is as elusive as it is impressive. This solaire vintage has certainly given La Chapelle a sense of foreboding power and yet there is so much grace here, too. You could be sniffing a handful of granite and gravel, a bouquet of freshly picked herbs, a mortar of freshly ground pepper or a punnet of juicy black fruit and yet there is so much more to discover here. What I find so remarkable about this wine is that it does not show any trace of over-ripeness nor does it have any unwanted oiliness or excessive alcohol. In spite of its richness and depth, this is a pristinely refreshing wine with crunch and crackle of filigree tannin which enlivens every sip. In this regard, it is a far less obvious superstar than the preening 1990 and it is a more erudite and statuesque model than the esoteric 2016. In short, this is one of only a handful of vintages of La Chapelle to which I have awarded a perfect score and who is to say that this will not happen again before too long? The care and attention in this entire portfolio of wines are evident and the hard work and holistic approach are not only paying off in the vineyards but also in the glass, too, and this makes 2019 another phenomenally successful vintage for Jaboulet.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

While there are faint roasted coffee bean notes here, which hint at the warm summer, and exotic rose and musk characters that only ever emerge in concentrated vintages, this is a masterclass in restraint and self-awareness. While this 2020 perhaps lacks the overall gravitas and high-rise tannins of the majestic 2019 vintage, this is a very seductive La Chapelle and one that will appeal to lovers of textural, velvety Syrahs. I am certain that everyone who drinks this wine will fall for its charms.

Matthew Jukes (19++)

I fell for this wine in a microsecond – the very moment the first molecule of perfume exploded on my receptors. This is a step-change vintage for La Maison Bleue because I have not seen this degree of single-mindedness and overriding intention before in this wine. 2019 La Maison Bleue seems as if it has realised that it does not need to sit behind La Chapelle in Caroline Frey’s portfolio. It signals, loud and clear, that it ought to be seated alongside its more renowned stablemate and be accorded the opportunity to address the masses as an equal, not a subordinate. This is a bold move from this honed, sleek wine. In 2019, with just that little bit more power and ambition under its belt, it has broken free and it looks absolutely sensational. The fruit is regal and layered and the tannins are precision-cut and perfectly positioned making it every inch a superstar. By the end of day five of my tasting these amazing wines, La Maison Bleue seemed as if it were saying, let’s keep going! While this is a ‘finished barrel sample’, this wine wanted to be tested to its limits and I cannot fault its enthusiasm and excellence. You simply must track it down!

Wine Advocate (93)

La Gundiñas is the wine that shows the most differences between 2017 and 2018. The 2017 La Vizcaína Las Gundiñas is dark and concentrated, a wine of sun, while the 2018 is delicate and feels like a mini Bonnes Mares! This is quite like a Cornas—meaty, juicy, a little reticent and powerful, with abundant tannins. This is one wine that behaves better in 2017 than in 2016. This is a plot that has ups and down; it might be more regular in the future, as they finally bought it in 2018. Some 5,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2019.

Wine Advocate (95+)

There is a bit of an animal hint on the nose of the 2018 La Vizcaína El Rapolao, which Raúl Pérez tells me is always part of the character of the wine when it's young. The difference with the 2017 is the quality of the tannins, which rounder and more elegant here, and the concentration, which is lower here, so this 2018 comes through as more fluid, fresh and elegant, with a silkier mouthfeel. They finally bought the vineyard in 2018, and the change in viticulture resulted in lower yields: they produced 6,000 bottles of this 2018, compared with the 10,000 bottles of the 2017. They have bought three more plots for this bottling, so volumes will grow in the future. The initial sensation fades after the wine has been in bottle for one hour, and it makes sense that it's gong to disappear with some more time in bottle. Pérez thinks it might be related to the recent bottling. It was bottled in May 2020, a few weeks before I tasted it.

Vinous (94)

Shimmering violet. Intensely perfumed aromas of dark berries, cherry pit, incense, exotic spices and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral flourish that builds in the glass. Densely packed and chewy on the palate, showing excellent depth and bright mineral lift to the sappy black and blue fruit, spicecake and violet pastille flavors. Gains energy with air and finishes impressively long and juicy, polished tannins building slowly and harmonizing with the wine's mineral-tinged fruit.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 La Vizcaína La Vitoriana comes from sandy soils and mostly north-facing vines, delivering elegant and floral wines. It's very young and fruit-driven, perhaps not as complex as the 2020. All of these reds are around 13.5% alcohol, medium-bodied and quite harmonious. 2019 was one of the larger crops, and there are 7,000 bottles of this.