Vinous (94-96)

The 2020 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru has a nicely-detailed bouquet: mulberry, crushed stone, rose petal and light bergamot aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh with a slightly chalky-textured but quite persistent finish. I admire the tension here and the length - a noble G.E.

Wine Advocate (94)

Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs F13 is – as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years. Pascal and Fabrice Agrapart farm 24 acres morsellated into more than 60 parcels the length of the Cote des Blancs, overwhelmingly planted with selections massales (principally of the family’s own, generations-long devising) rather than clones. Viticulture is clearly a meticulous concern, and while this estate doesn’t subscribe to any labels, it has a lot in common – including absence of herbicides or pesticides; generally minimalist cellar protocol; manual- and in some instances horse-plowing – with soil-conscious growers of officially organic or biodynamic persuasion. “It’s in warm, dry vintages with low acidity that you most see the effect of working the soil and making the roots go deep,” opines Pascal Agrapart, adding “I recently had a wonderful experience with a 1976 that was still full of vivacity.” Vinification is majority in tank for the two least expensive bottlings, but otherwise in old demi-muids in which primary fermentation is spontaneous and generally leisurely, with malo-lactic conversion initiated via a vinous starter to insure steady completion. Agrapart’s 2012 vins clairs and 2011 reserves, incidentally – wine isn’t assembled and bottled here until the end of the summer – were delightful and fascinating when tasted from barrel this June. There was noteworthy clarity, vibrancy and complexity to every wine I tasted here in June and thereafter, so it would have broken my heart not to be able to report on the non-vintage wines, but to do so, I must confess I’m walking close to the line of the conventions I established for my reports, because neither disgorgement dates nor lots are actually indicated on the label or bottle here, but rather on the top of the cork, with the months assigned consecutive capital letters, followed by the last two digits of the year in which the wine was disgorged. This means you’ll either need to buy and remove the cage from the first bottle or get some cooperation from your merchant if you want to know when the wine was disgorged (and as at other addresses, this won’t always be a reliable indicator as to the base wines in question, because Agraparts disgorge their “7 Crus” and “Terroirs” bottlings monthly).

Vinous (90)

Pale, shimmering orange. Bright and focused on the nose, displaying fresh red berry, nectarine and orange zest aromas, with floral and mineral overtones. Strawberry and nectarine flavors show good depth and a bracing jolt of juicy acidity. The floral note repeats on the lively finish, which lingers with very good tenacity. - Josh Raynolds

Vinous (94)

Inky ruby. Highly perfumed aromas of dark berry liqueur, incense and peony are energized by a smoky mineral flourish. Sweet and seamless in texture, offering densely packed blackberry and cherry compote flavors and suggestions of candied violet, spicecake and chewing tobacco. The floral and mineral notes resonate emphatically on an impressively long, penetrating finish that features mounting tannins and a sweet hint of cola.

Decanter (95)

Gorgeous rich dark purple in the glass. Quite jammy and concentrated on the nose, heady and perfumed with a lovely delicate florality to it too. Great freshness on the palate, juicy but a dark blackcurrant and cherry fruit juice. Beautifully balanced with integrated tannins and oak. Well defined fruit, generous and quite abundant against softly grippy, velvety tannins that just give support to the overall frame. It's serious but with a lightness of touch and playfulness - energetic and lively but still with depth. A great Alter Ego and confident winemaking on show.

Jancis Robinson (17+)

50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot. Cask sample. Very much in the Alter Ego mould – lively, fruit-driven with that vineyard-fresh feel but with a little more structure than previous years. Pure and appetising but will age. (JL) 13.7%

James Suckling (99-100)

This shows the purity of Angelus. I have never tasted a wine from here with such incredible clarity. Full body, full fruit and full beauty. Super silky tannins. A joy to taste. Makes you want to drink it. 62% merlot and 38% cabernet franc.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

I loved the 2018 Château Angélus from barrel last year and it blew me away from bottle, epitomizing the new, fresher, more elegant style of the estate while still bringing classic Angélus richness and power. The 2018 is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc that was brought up in new oak, with a portion of the Cabernet Franc in foudre. A vivid purple color is followed by a vibrant bouquet of blackberries, crème de cassis, crushed violets, spring flowers, and cedar pencil. Beautifully concentrated, full-bodied, and flawlessly balanced on the palate, it has gorgeous tannins, remarkable purity of fruit, and awesome length. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved, picking up additional depth and richness, while never showing a hint of oxidation. Pure perfection, it's going to benefit from 7-8 years of bottle age and keep for 3-4 decades. This is a sensational, magical wine from this talented team, led by winemaker Emmanuelle d'Aligny-Fulchi. Comparing this to the more opulent 2005 and 2009 over the coming decades will be an incredible experience.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2018 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru has a lovely blackcurrant and raspberry bouquet with just a touch of vanilla emanating from the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, soft and rounded with juicy red cherries and strawberry fruit on the finish. Very approachable, although I am not convinced it is long-term.

Vinous (87-89)

The 2018 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru has a lovely blackcurrant and raspberry bouquet with just a touch of vanilla emanating from the oak. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, soft and rounded with juicy red cherries and strawberry fruit on the finish. Very approachable, although I am not convinced it is long-term.

Vinous (95-97)

The 2020 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru is beautiful on the nose with harmonious, very pure dark cherries, violet and peony, blackcurrants and touches of rosemary. You could just inhale this all day. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannins, fine acidity, taut and fresh with just the right amount of spice towards the finish. So much energy here, this will be difficult to resist in its youth.

Vinous (87-89)

(a blend of eight vineyards): Bright medium red. Very dark aromas of black cherry, blackberry, licorice, herbs and spices. A juicy, youthfully tight midweight with a firm spine of dusty tannins and sneaky persistence. (Incidentally, the 2014 Bourgogne Rouge showed sexy red fruit flavors in a round, juicy style and should offer early pleasure. )

The Wine Independent (100)

The 2018 Ausone is deep garnet purple in color. There is oak to begin, giving way to a great core of baked black plums, chocolate-covered cherries, licorice, and incense, plus Indian spices and violets. Full-bodied, it is rich, concentrated, and decadent in the mouth, with a fantastic backbone of freshness and velvety tannins, finishing very long and layered.

Jeb Dunnuck (96)

An awesome Saint Emilion, the 2015 Château Barde-Haut showed even better on this occasion than on release. A huge nose of sweet crème de cassis, jammy blackberries, violets, leather, and dried herbs gives way to a full-bodied wine that has a great mid-palate, ripe, silky tannins, not a hard edge to be found, and a great, great finish. I love it even today, yet it has a full two decades of prime drinking ahead of it.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

Readers will find a rich, flamboyant wine in the 2016 Barde-Haut. There is not a ton of subtlety here, but I am not sure that matters all that much given how immensely pleasing the 2016 is. Crushed rocks, graphite, lavender, blackberry, plum, and violet infuse a Saint-Émilion that offers tremendous textural richness as well as vibrancy. Most importantly of all, the 2016 is flat-out delicious. This is a decidedly opulent, dark Saint-Émilion with all of the elements impeccably balanced. I loved it.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94+)

Just as it was en primeur, the 2017 Barde-Haut possesses notable richness and power, while retaining a good bit of freshness. Inky dark fruit, cloves, licorice, chocolate and menthol are pushed forward here. Racy and voluptuous in the glass, the 2017 is positively gorgeous today. It should drink well with minimal cellaring.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (95)

The 2020 Barde-Haut is just as compelling it was from barrel. Blueberry jam, crème de cassis, hard candy, spice, new leather and lavender infuse the 2020 with exotic beauty. Soft contours and silky tannins add to its immediacy. Bright acids lend vibrancy to play off all the natural opulence. The 2020 is a fine vintage of Barde-Haut, one of the best in recent memory. The intensely saline finish alone is a thing of beauty.

James Suckling (94-95)

Wow. The shows a new level of excellence with mint, mineral and currant character. Full body, super fine tannins and a savory finish. New definition here. Precision. New second wine from this estate moved up the quality.

James Suckling (96)

Shows beautiful, ripe cabernet aromas with currants, plums, meat and smoke. Flowers, too. Full body, deep and ripe fruit and exquisite, ripe tannins. Flavorful finish. Tight right now, but shows excellent potential. Best ever. Try after 2024.

The Wine Cellar Insider (96)

Clearly the best ever produced at Beau-Sejour Becot. You know it from the moment you place your nose in the wealth of flowers, licorice, smoke, black and red plums, dark cherry, espresso, and forest aromatics. Once the wine hits your palate, the wine really takes off with its sensuous textures, silky tannins and long, concentrated layer of perfectly ripe, sweet, fresh fruits. As the wine remains on your palate, the flavors expand and the sensation of crushed stone makes its presence known as well.

Wine Spectator (96-99)

Juicy and forward in feel, with fresh plum, blackberry and anise notes. Dense, but still silky and refined in feel, revealing a long mineral echo through the finish. This is so pure, it seems almost too easy to drink already, just as you realize how ridiculously long it is.

Wine Spectator (97)

A stunner from the get-go, with waves of thoroughly seductive boysenberry, plum, blueberry and raspberry reduction forming the core, while roasted apple wood, rooibos tea, bergamot, and anise notes flash throughout. This has plenty of bass, with a Turkish coffee accent and a hint of alder driving underneath. Everything moves in lockstep through the seriously long finish. Best from 2020 through 2045. 12,500 cases made.

James Suckling (99)

This is a stunning Beaucastel. A classic! Has a superb array of fruit, ranging from red, through to blue, darker purple and black. Nuances of dark, stony minerals, spices, wild flowers and herbs. So fleshy. This has impeccable balance, super-silky tannins and an extraordinarily long finish. This has decades ahead of it. Drink or hold.

Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The flagship is the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin, 75% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah, 10% Grenache, and the rest Counoise, brought up all in foudre. Blueberries, Peking duck, new saddle leather, black cherries, scorched earth, and an incredible sense of minerality all flow to a massive, concentrated, pure, perfectly balanced 2016 that is a prime example of the old saying, “an iron fist in a velvet glove.” It's a heavenly, perfect wine that's going to live for 30-50 years.

James Suckling (91-92)

A juicy and pretty wine with berry and chocolate character, a medium body and a clean finish. Clearly better than the 2015.

Vinous - Neal Martin (91-93)

The 2019 Beaumont impresses on the nose with intense blackberry and briary aromas, sous-bois and tobacco, all whilst maintaining its delineation. The palate is supple and silky on the entry. There is well judged acidity, plenty of cedar and seaweed, tinged black fruit and a spicy finish. Now, this is a bloody great Beaumont.