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24 June 2015

A Revelation from the Roussillon

We had heard good things about Clos des Fees. The name Robert Parker, though he himself no longer writes the reviews on his website, has that power – suddenly after years quietly making wine an estate can be catapulted from obscurity to celebrity. We were due to be in the region with a bit of time to spare, and though it was a bank holiday in France, the enigmatic Herve Bizuel agreed to receive us. Time was short, and as we pulled up to the winery near Rivesaltes we felt… apprehensive. A grouping of large, new buildings rose up in front of us, alien and strange in their provincial surroundings. We had visions of endless rows of brand new barrels inside, of showy modern wines, big price tags. We went inside to the reception area, freshly kitted out to receive tourists. It being a bank holiday in France, it was deserted. We gingerly walked around, calling for anyone who might be there. After a not-insignificant amount of time Herve Bizuel walked down the stairs.
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