Matthew Jukes (19+)

Made from 55% Chardonnay (Chouilly, Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant) and 45% Pinot Noir (Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Verzenay) and featuring only 2.9% oak, this wine spent 115 months on its lees and was bottled with a 3.8g/L dosage. 8.3% red wine from Mareuil was used, which is a little more than they use in the NV. The thinking here is it needs just a touch more depth of colour and intensity to keep its colour as it ages. We tasted in bottle and magnum with the same comparison of crown-sealed v cork-sealed and, again, the comparison was equally enjoyable. The bottles were superbly clean, amazingly delicate, and resonant, with crystal-clean fraise de bois notes dominating. Not surprisingly, with a Chardonnay-dominant recipe, the finish brings acres of chalk to scour the taste buds with glorious minerality and tension. Both the bottle and magnum have this superb engine on display, and the main difference at this early moment in the magnum’s life is that it appears, although the difference is not as stark as it is in Louis, to have more power pushed forwards on the palate. Both formats are superbly calm and controlled, and a vault of power in the core will send this wine down the line for a good couple of decades. Do I have a preference? Yes, with Elisabeth, I feel the bottle format will be the most alluring for the short to medium term and with Louis, I cannot resist the magnums! I scored both wines equally because they are beauties, and I cannot pick between them so that the choice will come down to your menu or your guests’ preferences.

Matthew Jukes (19+)

Named after the first chef de cave at Billecart, Louis Salmon, Billecart has been making this style since the ’60s, and it never disappoints. While 2012 had a very tricky start to the season, a remarkable vintage emerged because the summer was superb. The French expression, ‘Août fait le moût’, meaning ‘the month of August makes the must’, or rather, August is largely responsible for the calibre of flavour of any vintage, is startlingly accurate in this wine. With low yields, a lengthy hang-time, and decent natural alcohol levels of 10.5%, this 100% Grand Cru made up of 60% Le Mesnil, 23% Cramant, 11% Chouilly, and 6% Oiry is a ravishingly refreshing wine. 25% was vinified in barrel, and it was aged for a mighty 115 months before being bottled with a lean 3.9g/L dosage. Mathieu Roland-Billecart surmised that the 2012 sits between the 2002 and the 2008 in style – not as austere as ’02 and with “more meat” than ’08. Interestingly, the bottles were aged under crown caps, and the magnums were cork-sealed for maturation. We tasted these two formats side by side, and they indeed showed some fascinatingly different characteristics. The bottle format seemed lovely, silky, super-long and gloriously even. It is a slender, willowy wine with a palate that flows briskly with intent. Its flanks are glassy-smooth, and all of the acidity is reserved for the serious finish, which echoes the NV that proceeded it, except this time, there is much more tension and verve on display. The cork-cap-aged magnum discreetly showed more breadth on the nose and a hint of toastiness on the palate. It seemed to have picked up more of the oak nuances, carrying them further forward on the palate. The other difference is that the magnum appears more profound, as it billows on the palate initially, however I can see both formats converging somewhat over time. While they are both exactly the same wine, they might never end up tasting identical because every time you open a bottle, taking a ‘snapshot’ of their flavours, they will not be at the same spot of their respective timelines, and this makes them both must-haves for the serious Billecart aficionado! Billecart also made a handful of jeroboams in 2012 – albeit in tiny quantities – so goodness knows how different this format would taste.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Seductive and well-judged ‘reductive’ (smoky, struck-match) aroma and really toasty as it opens up, something cedary. Very Coche Dury but, most importantly, there is the fruit intensity to carry off this winemaking style. Nutty, creamy, mealy citrus. So many things going on that it makes you slow down to try to enjoy all this complexity. Deep, deliciously fresh and incredibly persistent with an aftertaste of savoury/mineral citrus. Worth every penny of its NZ price of $45 (from the producer's website). Classy and got better and better over the few days post opening.

Vinous (97)

The 2021 Chardonnay Reed Vineyard is pure, harmonious and suave, caressing the mouth with its gentle texture and purity. It's not showy but a wine worth getting to know: it provides cognitive and sensory pleasure. You can expect almond, oatmeal, smoky nuts and party popper aromas. Yes, party poppers. I really love the smell of party poppers, so I want to keep smelling this and having a little party shimmy. Pure and textural with a gourmand character that will make you want to lick your cheeks to keep tasting it. Already good; this is going to be great.

Vinous (98)

The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a Grande Année built on linear intensity and drive. The 2014 is a blend taken from 19 villages, 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay instead of the more typical 70/30 mix. For the second time in two decades (the first was 2007), Verzenay takes the lead in the Pinots over Aÿ, more or less an inverse from the norm. Verzenay, a north-facing village in the Montagne de Reims that saw less rain than Aÿ and most of the Vallée de la Marne, yields Pinots of energy more than volume. That, married with Chardonnays mostly from the Côtes des Blancs (predominantly Chouilly, Vertus, Oiry and Cramant), results in a truly magical Grande Année that will delight Champagne fans for several decades. I can’t recommend the 2014 highly enough. It’s a total knock-out. Disgorged: April, 2021. Dosage: 8 grams per liter.

Essi Avallen MW (96-98)

At this point of youthfulness the pink colour is rather rich and bright. Lovely clean and fruit-forward nose with fresh red berry aromas mixing with spice and orange notes. Quite shyly evolved with much more to surface on the complexity front. Today there is attractive exuberant fruitiness and perfect creamy freshness. Promising palate with power and persistence where an overall harmony enhances the feeling of sophistication.

Matthew Jukes (18.5)

The question I am most asked every year is, “Is Whispering Angel any good?”. My answer has never changed. Yes, of course, this wine is a triumph. It is made to exacting standards, and while there is more competition these days than ever, Whispering Angel and its Esclans portfolio pals still sit atop the pile. And while some think that you can save a few quid elsewhere, and they might be right, nothing comes close to Rock Angel. Instead of defending Whispering Angel’s honour, I prefer to advise curious rosé fiends to spend a fiver more and drink Rock. Rock is not a turbo-charged version of Whispering, although that is the line most people peddle. They say this because it sees some oak, making it seem like a Whispering+. But to me, Rock Angel is more clearly related to the Estate range of wines – those that come from the Chateau d’Esclans itself. All these wines (Chateau d’Esclans, Les Clans and Garrus) are made using oak, and their fruit is of the highest quality; hence, pricing ranges from £40-£140. Rock Angel swings in under £25 if you search hard enough, and I believe it is the finest value, ‘grand-tasting’ rosé around. It has a stunning volume of fruit, seamless, indulgent and impressively long.

Wine Advocate (92)

Bottled in February 2021 (no, that isn't a typo), Defaix's 2009 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet wafts from the glass with aromas of honeycomb, golden orchard fruit, apricot, spices and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny, it's a lively, saline wine that concludes with a delicately nutty finish.

Wine Advocate (93+)

Starting with a broad and waxy nose of elegant yellow apples, sweet citrus and plum blossom, the 2021 Aristargos is delightful and intricate in the glass. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is enticing with the flavors of Meyer lemon and spiced white tea, while displaying a dusty mineral tension that evolves over the long, spicy and complex finish. It’s a brilliantly layered wine that will remain food-friendly for years to come.

Wine Advocate (94)

Displaying a pale golden color and sourced from eight different vineyards, the 2021 Chenin Blanc offers a fine mineral sensation from being made partly in concrete eggs, while it expresses soft leesy and subtly spiced essences from being rested in oak. Light to medium-bodied, The wine offers lovely notions of citrus blossom, sweet citrons and dusty cherry skin. With a delicate nature, this medium-framed wine is bright and complex while delivering a thought-provoking, food-friendly finish. Bravo!

James Suckling (96)

This has aromas of ripe apricots, buttercream, baked apples and pastries. Medium-to full-bodied with a creamy, round and almost oily texture. Lovely balance of ripe fruit and toasted-pastry notes with bright acidity. Delicious finish. Fantastic value, as always. Drink now or hold.

James Suckling (92)

So subtle and perfumed with rice floor, lime and green melon aromas that follow through to a medium body with a wonderful center palate of tension, fruit and acidity. Drink now.

Wine Advocate (92)

This is a Tuscan white wine with a huge following, and deservedly so. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Argentato is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Petit Manseng, Traminer and Semillon. The wine broaches a mid-weight texture, showing some creamy density and waxiness, but it ultimately pulls back to a lean-bodied approach that is pushed forward by the wine's bright and snappy acidity. It delivers aromas of orchard fruit, tangerine skin, sweet almond and poached pear. It has the 360-degree latitude to pair with vegetarian dishes, fish or white meat.

Vinous (92)

The NV Esprit Nature is a fabulous introduction to this range. Creamy, open-knit and so expressive, the Esprit Nature captures all of the textural intensity that is such a Giraud signature, but in an approachable style. The Esprit Nature is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay done mostly in oak, with a bit of sandstone amphora. This release is based on 2017, 50% reserve wines. Readers should note that the "Nature" is used here as part of the wine name, rather than an indication of dosage, which is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: October 21, 2020.

James Suckling (93)

A well-crafted sauvignon blanc with notes of green apples, lime and some tropical fruits. Juicy and medium-bodied with lovely harmonious texture. Velvety with volume and precision. Lovely with a focused and well-rounded finish. Drink now.

Decanter (99)

Created in 1876 to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II, Louis Roederer’s Cristal has since become a symbol of luxury all around the world. Produced only during the best years, it’s made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, the grapes coming from 45 of the finest lieux-dits in the region. 2013 was a late bloomer, with flowering only taking place in July after a cool spring. The summer was ideal with long periods of dry and warm weather. One third of the wine is aged in oak and there’s no malolactic fermentation. Vincenzo Arnese: Packed with elegant yet powerful aromas of ripe orchard trees that merge with brioche and dry cookies. This is a harmonious and well-defined Champagne with integrated residual sugar and astonishing acidity. Divine! Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW: Lemon coloured with a pink hue. Like a blanc de noirs, with cherries and white fruit aromas. Balanced and suave. Goes from less to more, with an exceptionally long and complex finish. Amanda Barnes: Appealing notes on the nose of pastry dough and apple tart that are very open. On the palate there’s beautiful concentration with lingering savoury notes. Minerally and sophisticated. Nominated by Peter Liem

Jeb Dunnuck (98)

Sourced from 39 plots, the 2014 Champagne Cristal is 60% Pinot Noir and the remainder Chardonnay, with 32% aged in oak, and it has 7 grams per liter dosage. It is highly expressive of classic elegance and purity, revealing aromas of crushed rock, almond croissant, and perfume of citrus blossoms. The palate is hyper-refined in its mousse, with pinpoint bubbles, a subtly rounded mid-palate, an irresistible chalky texture, and energy throughout its long and floral finish. Everything about this feels perfectly tailored. Drink 2024-2044.

The Wine Independent (98)

The 2015 Cristal is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. No malo-lactic was employed, and 25% wine was aged in oak. The dosage is 7 grams per liter. An exquisitely delicate yet complex perfume of clover honey, freshly shaved ginger, marzipan, and jasmine slowly emerges from the nose, giving way to a core of pear tart, persimmons, and apple butter. The palate is an exercise in finesse, featuring very fine bubbles and fantastic intensity with a myriad of spice and floral nuances, finishing with impressive persistence and jaw-dropping poise. This is a style for those that embrace purity, soft-spoken expression, and impeccable crafting. It won't disappoint those who love Champagne in its initial youthful perfume flushes, yet will undoubtedly reward the patient with a richer, toastier, more obvious and opulent style with 5-10 years+ of cellaring.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2021 Coche has to be one of the finest white wines from Portugal that I've tasted. It was produced with grapes grown at 600 meters in altitude, from very old vineyards with the right field blend with a majority of Rabigato but also other local varieties. It has a fine and elegant reductive character with flinty notes, hints of smoke and dry herbs. This is sharp and super tasty, with an almost salty twist in the finish. It fermented and matured in French oak barrels (mostly 228-liter ones) for one year. It's serious, nuanced, a little austere and vertical, with a dry finish, a chalky sensation and very good persistence. It has 11.8% alcohol, a pH of 3.26 and 5.8 grams of acidity. I've drunk all the vintages of Coche since the first year (2010), and this is the finest to date. Bravo. 9,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2023.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2020 Chardonnay Belle Côte, matured for 12 months in about 40% new French oak, explodes with singular aromas of ginger, lemongrass and Meyer lemon with streaks of flint and dried herbs. The medium-bodied palate is just as intense, offering highly concentrated fruit, seamless acidity, expansive, spicy flavors and a finish that goes on and on. Ultra concentrated and perfumed, the Belle Côte is especially expressive this vintage. 2,782 cases were made.

Immerse yourself in the enchanting world of French winemaking with the Philippe Dremont La Moca Grand Cru 2017. Produced in the revered vineyards of Champagne, France, it exudes quality and authenticity. The breathtaking terroir lends itself brilliantly to the cultivation of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier - the trademark blend of this exquisite grand cru.

Expert winemaker, Philippe Dremont, employs traditional manufacturing techniques, allowing the wine to ferment naturally with indigenous yeasts. Aged for 36 months in French oak barrels, this delectable champagne boasts an alluring complexity. Expect a plethora of impressive notes including candied fruits, honey, and toasted brioche. A subtle minerality enhances the elegance of the champagne, followed by a lingering finish that epitomises the quality and craftsmanship of the Philippe Dremont La Moca Grand Cru 2017.

Its golden hue and fine bubbles are a visual testament to this champagne's grandeur. An exclusive delight for true connoisseurs.

Jancis Robinson (18)

Blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from grand cru vineyards. Deep golden straw colour. Full-bodied, meaty nose with lots of impact. Lovely, filigree mousse – very well judged for its impact on the palate. Flavours reach every bit of the palate. Quite a charmer! Definitely already approachable – in fact it tastes as though it would already have been pretty nice last year! A fine, succulent representative of this dry, ripe year. Pretty gorgeous actually. Maybe it won't be the longest-lasting Churchill but it's hugely satisfying now.

Decanter (93)

Vanilla-laced citrus and tropical fruit aromas with soft floral flecks. Generous and lively with pineapple, lemon and mango fruit giving richness while an undercurrent of salty, flint minerality gives tension and drive. Concentrated, long and balanced. 59% Sauvignon Blanc (vinified in stainless steel) and 41% Semillon (new oak barrels for six months with regular lees stirring). Grapes are grown on gravel soils over sandy clay.

Wine Advocate (97+)

A strong candidate for the title of wine of the vintage in Chablis this year, the Raveneau family's 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur unwinds in the glass with aromas of crisp green apple, citrus zest, iodine, oyster shell and fresh hazelnuts. Full-bodied, taut and chiseled, it's incredibly taut and concentrated, with huge depth at the core, tangy acids and a long, penetrating, pungently saline finish. Might this turn out to be even better than the magical 2017? Time will tell, but this is clearly a masterful achievement.

Robert Ampeau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes 1997 offers an unforgettable journey to the heart of fine winemaking, embodying the renowned tradition of French viticulture. This exquisite white wine, crafted under the watchful eye of the esteemed Robert Ampeau, hails from Puligny-Montrachet in Burgundy and is part of the premier cru, denoting its exceptional quality.

The wine is famed for its elegant vibrancy and subtle complexity, a testament to Robert Ampeau's meticulous approach. Spared from invasive modern techniques, Ampeau tends his vineyards with care, allowing the authentic terroir of Montrachet to your glass.

The Robert Ampeau Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes 1997 showcases rich character, nuanced with pear, citrus, almond and stony mineral notes. The palate is robust yet impeccably balanced, carrying through to a lingering, sophisticated finish.

Let this vintage transport you, an emblem of time, passion, and the indomitable spirit of French winemaking tradition.